{"id":43373,"date":"2026-10-03T03:29:50","date_gmt":"2026-10-03T03:29:50","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/harissa.com\/news-wp\/?p=43373"},"modified":"2026-10-03T03:29:50","modified_gmt":"2026-10-03T03:29:50","slug":"tunis-bombay-par-monique-zetlaoui","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/harissa.com\/news-wp\/tunis-bombay-par-monique-zetlaoui\/","title":{"rendered":"Tunis-Bombay, par Monique Zetlaoui"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Paris <\/b><\/p>\n

Cher Monsieur Salman Rushdie, <\/b><\/p>\n

Au bout d\u2019une longue avenue bord\u00e9e de ficus et inond\u00e9e de soleil o\u00f9 tous les soirs des milliers d\u2019oiseaux \u00e0 18 heures sonnantes donnaient un concert, se trouvait la gare du T.G.M.<\/b><\/p>\n

Bien s\u00fbr, ce n\u2019\u00e9tait ni Churgate[1]<\/a>, ni V.T, juste un auvent bleu et blanc. Le petit train de bois, import\u00e9 par les colonisateurs, \u00a0embarquait jusqu’\u00e0 la Marsa, la population de Tunis tous les jours de l\u2019\u00e9t\u00e9. Il longeait la mer, ma mer, ma M\u00e9diterran\u00e9e. A l\u2019ext\u00e9rieur, on voyait d\u00e9filer des paysages doux et \u00e9corch\u00e9s, des bougainvilliers en fleurs, des cactus croulants sous les fruits piquants et des pans de civilisation. La gloire et les ruines de Carthage, le fort de la Goulette, le lyc\u00e9e fran\u00e7ais et les coquettes petites maisons des ma\u00e7ons siciliens. A l\u2019int\u00e9rieur du train, vous Salman, enfant de Bombay n\u2019auriez pas \u00e9t\u00e9 d\u00e9pays\u00e9. Il n\u2019y avait ni paniwallah[2]<\/a> ni livreur de th\u00e9 criant\u00a0:\u00a0 \u00ab\u00a0garam garam chai[3]<\/a>\u00a0\u00bb, mais les bruits et l\u2019effervescence pouvaient \u00e9voquer un trajet jusqu’\u00e0 Poona[4]<\/a>. Fermez les yeux, plus de saris aux couleurs chatoyantes, ouvrez-les maintenant. Recouvertes de sefsaris d\u2019un blanc immacul\u00e9, les belles arabes ne laissaient voir que leurs yeux ourl\u00e9s de khol. A c\u00f4t\u00e9, la nonna sicilienne qui fut si pulpeuse autrefois, il y a longtemps, longtemps avant tous les spaghettis, tortelinis, rigattonis (mama mia!…), et les jeunes filles juives timides et aguicheuses fredonnaient les premi\u00e8res chansons d\u2019Elvis. Moi aussi, je la connais votre mixit\u00e9, elle est moi. Je suis juive, n\u00e9e \u00e0 Tunis et \u00e9lev\u00e9e en fran\u00e7ais dans un couvent, adepte du zoroastrisme, religion de la Perse antique, premi\u00e8re religion \u00e9cologique au monde (quoique ath\u00e9e au final) J\u2019ai entendu le chant du muezzin non loin de la grande cath\u00e9drale de Tunis et le jour de Kippour, m\u00eame la ville arabe semblait se recueillir. Ici m\u00eame le nom des rues (rue Malta Srira, avenue de France, avenue de Carthage, rue de Naples, rue Sidi Sifiane, rue Sidi Mahrez) \u00e9voquent les diff\u00e9rentes communaut\u00e9s qui firent la ville. Je les connais tous les petits m\u00e9tiers de Tunis, m\u00eame ceux qui n\u2019existaient d\u00e9j\u00e0 plus lorsque je suis n\u00e9e et je n\u2019ai pas \u00e9t\u00e9 \u00e9tonn\u00e9 de les retrouver \u00e0 Bombay. J\u2019ai march\u00e9 dans toutes les rues de la ville. Je connais tous les recoins de la Medina, de la Petite Sicile, de la Ville Europ\u00e9enne et de la Hara juive. J\u2019ai hum\u00e9 l\u2019air embaumant le jasmin \u00e0 la tomb\u00e9e du soir et comme mes s\u0153urs de Bombay j\u2019ai accroch\u00e9 \u00e0 mes cheveux des guirlandes de fleurs. J\u2019ai fl\u00e2n\u00e9 dans les rues grouillantes du port de La Goulette, l\u00e9ch\u00e9 les granites de citron glac\u00e9, d\u00e9gust\u00e9 les sandwichs de thon d\u00e9goulinant d\u2019huile (mon bhel puri \u00e0 moi) et mes petits citrons beldis ressemblent comme des fr\u00e8res \u00e0 ceux de Bombay. Les m\u00fbres du mois de juin sont attendues, \u00e0 Tunis,\u00a0 \u00e0 Bombay avec la m\u00eame impatience que la mangue Alphonso. J\u2019ai croqu\u00e9 \u00e0 Tunis et \u00e0 Bombay, des pois-chiches grill\u00e9s dans des cornets de papier journal De Tunis \u00e0 Bombay le chemin fut long. C\u2019est vous qui m\u2019avez appris que Tunis pouvait \u00eatre la petite s\u0153ur de Bombay Mumba\u00ef. Avant d\u2019atterrir \u00e0 Sahar, je savais par vous, qu\u2019elles \u00e9taient jumelles comme Shiva et Salem. Un 14 juin, juste avant la mousson, j\u2019ai vu pour la premi\u00e8re fois le maidam[5]<\/a> jaune et craquelant. Je me suis m\u00eal\u00e9e \u00e0 la foule qui d\u00e9ambulait autour de Gate of India, j\u2019ai attendu la mousson \u00e0 Marine Drive. Comme surgie d\u2019un conte de f\u00e9es, au bout d\u2019une digue sur la mer d\u2019Oman, j\u2019ai vu la mosqu\u00e9e de Haj Ali, et je me suis inclin\u00e9e devant la d\u00e9esse Lakshmi. La nuit, j\u2019ai applaudi les dresseurs de singes, les charmeurs de serpents \u00e0 Chawpati. J\u2019ai pass\u00e9 de si longues soir\u00e9es avec vos amis, des amis tr\u00e8s proches, leurs noms\u00a0? Salem et Shiva, Flora Zogoiby, Aurora\u00a0, Haroun, Rachid, Chamcha, Vina Aspara, Ormus Cama et les autres. Et\u00a0 parce que Tunis et Bombay sont proches, parce que dans mes souvenirs d\u2019adolescente, Bourguiba et Nehru deux leaders de la d\u00e9colonisation restent les hommes \u00e0 la fleur, le jasmin pour Si Habib[6]<\/a> et la rose pour Chacha Nehru[7]<\/a>, vous ne pouvez refuser de me rencontrer. <\/b><\/p>\n

Je suis pr\u00eate \u00e0 venir \u00e0 Londres, \u00e0 New York, \u00e0 Bombay, en voiture, en train, en avion, en bateau, et pourquoi pas en rickshaw. Je veux bien vous envoyer mon extrait de naissance, ma carte d\u2019identit\u00e9, mon acte de mariage et m\u00eame mes bulletins scolaires. J\u2019accepte que votre garde personnelle fouille dans mon pass\u00e9, mon pr\u00e9sent et mes bagages. Un jour Napol\u00e9on III demanda \u00e0 une actrice qu\u2019il courtisait\u00a0\u00ab\u00a0o\u00f9, quand, combien\u00a0?\u00a0\u00bb Elle lui r\u00e9pondit\u00a0:\u00a0\u00ab\u00a0ce soir, chez moi, pour rien.\u00a0\u00bb. Moi j\u2019attends votre r\u00e9ponse mon micro \u00e0 la main et un stylo dans l\u2019autre. Persuad\u00e9e que vous m\u2019attendez avec impatience, je vous dis en toute qui\u00e9tude et en toute confiance\u00a0: A tr\u00e8s bient\u00f4t.\u00a0 Oh\u00a0! Pourquoi cet air dubitatif\u00a0? Vous murmurez quoi\u00a0? Accha… accha<\/i>… alors on va se rencontrer,\u00a0 thik hai<\/i>\u00a0? <\/b><\/p>\n


MONIQUE ZETLAOUI<\/b><\/p>\n\n
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[1]<\/a> Churgate et Victoria Terminus sont les principales gares de\u00a0 Bombay <\/b> <\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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[2]<\/a> Livreur d\u2019eau, pani\u00a0: eau en hindi, et le suffixe wallah indique celui qui fait ou poss\u00e8de.<\/b><\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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[3]<\/a> Chaud, chaud, le th\u00e9<\/b><\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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[4]<\/a> Poona\u00a0:\u00a0 Ville du\u00a0 Maharastra \u00e0 160 km de Bombay<\/b><\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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[5]<\/a> Maidam\u00a0: pelouse, espaces verts de Bombay<\/b><\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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[6]<\/a> Si Habib\u00a0: Terme respectueux et affectueux pour d\u00e9signer Habib Bourguiba.<\/b><\/p>\n<\/div>\n

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[7]<\/a> Chacha, oncle paternel en hindi, terme affectueux par lequel\u00a0 le peuple indien d\u00e9signait son premier ministre.<\/b><\/p>\n

Article repris de la revue Qantara (magazine des cultures arabe et m\u00e9diterran\u00e9enne)<\/b><\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n\n

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Paris Cher Monsieur Salman Rushdie, Au bout d\u2019une longue avenue bord\u00e9e de ficus et inond\u00e9e de soleil o\u00f9 tous les soirs des milliers d\u2019oiseaux \u00e0 18 heures sonnantes donnaient un concert, se trouvait la gare du T.G.M. Bien s\u00fbr, ce n\u2019\u00e9tait ni Churgate[1], ni V.T, juste un auvent bleu et blanc. Le petit train de… <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":0,"featured_media":23295,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"neve_meta_sidebar":"","neve_meta_container":"","neve_meta_enable_content_width":"","neve_meta_content_width":0,"neve_meta_title_alignment":"","neve_meta_author_avatar":"","neve_post_elements_order":"","neve_meta_disable_header":"","neve_meta_disable_footer":"","neve_meta_disable_title":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[17],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-43373","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-souvenirs"],"yoast_head":"\nTunis-Bombay, par Monique Zetlaoui | HARISSA.COM<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Paris Cher Monsieur Salman Rushdie, Au bout d\u2019une longue avenue bord\u00e9e de ficus et inond\u00e9e de soleil o\u00f9 tous les soirs des milliers d\u2019oiseaux \u00e0 18 heures\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, 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