\n\tC’est un petit coin à part, dans Paris, un lieu de la nostalgie, comme un point bleuté et ensoleillé, sis à deux pas des grands boulevards. Enrico Macias y mange chaque jour, lorsqu’il est à Paris. Pierre Benichou y est fidèle pour l’après-théâtre. Bertrand Delanoé, natif de Bizerte, vient y goûter le « complet poisson » et les photos de Sarko, Dati, Lellouche, Fillon, qui y ornent un tantinet les murs indiquent que ce n’est pas là seulement un restaurant, mais plutôt une ambassade non dite, un club, une parenthèse.<\/p>\n
\n
\n\t\tLa Boule Rouge, en effet, est hors du temps. Avec sa fresque sur le thème du désert, sa façade rouge, sa clientèle rieuse et fidèle, ses bouteilles de rosés et de gris qui défilent sur les tables, elle figure, depuis plus de 30 ans une institution tranquille de la cuisine juive tunisienne de qualité. Raymond Haddad a créé l’établissement en 1976. Il est relayé en salle par le drolatique Michel qui a un faux air de Bibi Netanyaou. Mais veille sur la demeure avec coeur, achète les meilleurs produits chaque jour et jette après le dernier service du soir ce qui n’a pas été consommé.<\/p>\n
\n\t\tSon acte de foi? Ce sont ces beaux poissons présentés entiers, daurade royale, bar sauvage, loup de Méditerranée, mérou comme à la Goulette, belle sole de 6 à 800 grammes, thon maigre ou gras, rougets qu’on proposera en friture, mulet qui sera grillé ou « en complet » avec son œuf. La carte ressemble une offrande à la Tunisie des origines. Natif de Nabeul, où son père était épicier et sa mère cuisinait pour la famille et les amis le vendredi soir, il a fait de ce restaurant une sorte de petit temple guilleret de la nostalgie, comme entre le Cap Bon et Hammamet.<\/p>\n
\n\t\tOn sert le thon à l’huile avec la mechouia, la salade de radis, la minina (un soufflé de poulet aux œufs, qui se pratiquait jadis avec la cervelle), le brick au thon, les merguez, le couscous loubia (les haricots blancs) aux grains de paradis, le boeuf tomaté au camoun (le nom oriental du cumin) avec ses fèves, ses croquettes de pommes de terre, ses petits pois, les boulettes à l’anis, la ganaouia (qui sont de petites courgettes), le psal (oignon), l’akoud (les tripes, avec leur sauce tomatée au cumin) ou encore le couscous bkaïla (aux épinards et haricots) du vendredi. Le samedi mid, car la maison est estampillée casher, on sert le poisson malin (un mérou réchauffé).<\/p>\n
\n\t\tEn dessert, il y aura les fruits de saison, les pastèques, les raisins, les fraises ou le melon, mais aussi la pâtisserie traditionnel, les makroutes ou les oreilles au miel. Bref, voilà un lieu ouvert à tous ceux qui veulent simplement découvrir une cuisine authentique, une ambiance joyeuse et des plats qui ont le goût du soleil, de la franchise et de l’amitié.<\/p>\n
\n\t\tGilles Pudlowski<\/p>\n
\n\t\t <\/p>\n
\n\t\tLa Boule Rouge, restaurant tunisien Paris 9e <\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" La Boule Rouge « Un petit tour à la Boule Rouge (Paris 9e) » C’est un petit coin à part, dans Paris, un lieu de la nostalgie, comme un point bleuté et ensoleillé, sis à deux pas des grands boulevards. Enrico Macias y mange chaque jour, lorsqu’il est à Paris. Pierre Benichou y… <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":17758,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"neve_meta_sidebar":"","neve_meta_container":"","neve_meta_enable_content_width":"","neve_meta_content_width":0,"neve_meta_title_alignment":"","neve_meta_author_avatar":"","neve_post_elements_order":"","neve_meta_disable_header":"","neve_meta_disable_footer":"","neve_meta_disable_title":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[338,25,323,14,1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-6131","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-bertrand-delano","category-cuisine","category-enrico-macias","category-paris","category-uncategorized"],"yoast_head":"\n
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