{"id":64040,"date":"2020-09-13T16:46:41","date_gmt":"2020-09-13T16:46:41","guid":{"rendered":""},"modified":"2020-09-13T16:46:41","modified_gmt":"2020-09-13T16:46:41","slug":"how-a-humble-tunisian-family-recipe-landed-in-one-of-new-yorks-finest-restaurants","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/harissa.com\/news-wp\/how-a-humble-tunisian-family-recipe-landed-in-one-of-new-yorks-finest-restaurants\/","title":{"rendered":"How a Humble Tunisian Family Recipe Landed in One of New York\u2019s Finest Restaurants"},"content":{"rendered":"<div class=\"col sqs-col-12 span-12\" id=\"yui_3_17_2_1_1600015551785_155\">\n<p class=\"entry-title entry-title--large p-name\" data-content-field=\"title\" itemprop=\"headline\">How a Humble Tunisian Family Recipe Landed in One of New York\u2019s Finest Restaurants<\/p>\n<div class=\"sqs-block html-block sqs-block-html\" data-block-type=\"2\" id=\"block-yui_3_17_2_1_1524772952120_13903\">\n<div class=\"sqs-block-content\">\n<p style=\"white-space:pre-wrap;\">\u201cWe\u2019re living in the grandmother era,\u201d says Lior Lev Sercarz, a spice blender based in Manhattan. \u201cUntil 15 years ago or so, none of the chefs wanted to serve what we ate at home. It wasn\u2019t cool, it wasn\u2019t sexy.\u201d But, that has shifted, says Lior. For him, that first happened early in his career when he was working at Daniel, one of New York\u2019s most revered restaurants.<\/p>\n<p style=\"white-space:pre-wrap;\">Chef Daniel Boulud \u201cran through the hallways and said: \u2018We have a big problem,\u2019\u201d Lior recalls. The chef had agreed to cater a Tunisian bat mitzvah, but didn\u2019t know how to prepare Tunisian dishes. In an effort to impress the chef, Lior said he would take care of it. It was only after, that Lior realized: \u201cOh shoot. What do I do?\u201d Lior had grown up on Kibbutz Dan in the Galilee, eating Tunisian food like pkaila a stew of burnt spinach, beans and sausage, but had little experience cooking it.<\/p>\n<p style=\"white-space:pre-wrap;\">\u201cI remember my aunt getting married and my grandmother insisting she would make [pkaila] for the whole kibbutz,\u201d he says. \u201cThat\u2019s a vivid memory for me \u2014 in the kitchen with all of these Polish and Hungarian women who had no idea what she was doing.\u201d<\/p>\n<p style=\"white-space:pre-wrap;\">His grandmother Pnina was a skilled and passionate Tunisian cook despite being raised in Transylvania. In her teens, she left her orthodox family to make aliyah with the secular Zionist movement Hashomer Hatzair. She faced a roadblock in Italy where boats departed from. \u201cShe needed papers,\u201d Lior explains. Married immigrants were given preferential treatment, he says. Eager to board a boat, she married a stranger who was also making aliyah. \u201cThey got to Israel and they both said goodbye. I don\u2019t know if they saw each other again, [but] they stayed in touch\u201d he adds.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"sqs-block html-block sqs-block-html\" data-block-type=\"2\" id=\"block-yui_3_17_2_1_1524773211194_8348\">\n<div class=\"sqs-block-content\">\n<p style=\"white-space:pre-wrap;\">When she arrived, Pnina lived in Kfar Saba, outside of Tel Aviv, where she met Izak, Lior\u2019s grandfather, in a camp where young Zionists were trained to form kibbutzs. He was Tunisian, from Sfax, a small city along Tunisia\u2019s coast. With little of her family surviving the war, \u201cMy grandfather\u2019s family became her new family,\u201d Lior says. She adopted their traditions and recipes and together the couple helped found Kibbutz Dan near Israel\u2019s most northern border. \u201cI think sometimes, she was more Tunisian than him,\u201d Lior jokes.<\/p>\n<p style=\"white-space:pre-wrap;\">Despite living in a communal children\u2019s home of the kibbutz, Lior spent many afternoons with his grandparents during a \u201cvisiting hour\u201d of sorts. When Lior was little, his grandfather would gather capers from around the kibbutz to pickle for the family and would rub toast with garlic and slick it with butter and harissa for an afternoon snack for the two of them. But it was Pnina, who was the family chef.<\/p>\n<p style=\"white-space:pre-wrap;\">Some of the Tunisian culinary traditions she adopted, including the festive pkaila, were passed from her to Lior. \u201cMy mother maybe made pkaila once,\u201d he explains.<\/p>\n<p style=\"white-space:pre-wrap;\">Still, when Lior was in the kitchen at Daniel, it was his mother who he called frantically with the hope that she could help him master the recipe. She put him in touch with a cousin who spent three hours on the phone with him, teaching Lior to make the family recipe. The dish impressed Daniel and Lior\u2019s fellow cooks so much that it appeared as a special at the restaurant for a time.<\/p>\n<p style=\"white-space:pre-wrap;\">Today, Lior says he doesn\u2019t need a special occasion to make the recipe. \u201cEvery time I tell [my mom] I made it, she\u2019s like \u2018It\u2019s so complicated.\u2019\u201d But it\u2019s not, he promises. The signature flavor comes from burning the spinach. And, Lior adds: \u201cIt\u2019s every cook\u2019s dream to be able to burn something and get a good result.\u201d<\/p>\n<p style=\"white-space:pre-wrap;\"><em>Lior shared a version of this story during our live storytelling event, Schmaltzy, on October 3rd. Listen here:<\/em><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>How a Humble Tunisian Family Recipe Landed in One of New York\u2019s Finest Restaurants \u201cWe\u2019re living in the grandmother era,\u201d says Lior Lev Sercarz, a spice blender based in Manhattan. \u201cUntil 15 years ago or so, none of the chefs wanted to serve what we ate at home. It wasn\u2019t cool, it wasn\u2019t sexy.\u201d But,&hellip;&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":64041,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"neve_meta_sidebar":"","neve_meta_container":"","neve_meta_enable_content_width":"","neve_meta_content_width":0,"neve_meta_title_alignment":"","neve_meta_author_avatar":"","neve_post_elements_order":"","neve_meta_disable_header":"","neve_meta_disable_footer":"","neve_meta_disable_title":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-64040","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v28.6 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>How a Humble Tunisian Family Recipe Landed in One of New York\u2019s Finest Restaurants | HARISSA.COM<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"How a Humble Tunisian Family 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