{"id":65051,"date":"2021-04-18T04:36:50","date_gmt":"2021-04-18T04:36:50","guid":{"rendered":""},"modified":"2021-04-18T04:36:50","modified_gmt":"2021-04-18T04:36:50","slug":"chez-theodore-un-sandwich-et-une-bricka-nommes-desir","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/harissa.com\/news-wp\/chez-theodore-un-sandwich-et-une-bricka-nommes-desir\/","title":{"rendered":"Chez Theodore, un sandwich et une \u00ab bricka \u00bb nommes desir !"},"content":{"rendered":"
\n

PAR MOHAMED RACHED KHAYATI<\/p>\n<\/header>\n

\n

Chez Th\u00e9o, de son vrai pr\u00e9nom Th\u00e9odore Chiche, alias \u00ab El-Otri \u00bb<\/em> (\u2018\u0627\u0644\u0639\u0637\u0631\u064a\u2019<\/em>, en arabe), pour \u00eatre pr\u00e9cis, ou encore \u00ab Tudor<\/em> \u00bb comme se complaisent \u00e0 l\u2019appeler certains Nabeuliens, l\u2019\u00e9choppe ne paie pas de mine, mais le sandwich tunisien est tout simplement, succulent pour ne pas dire parfait.
\nIl ne faut pas plus de cinq petites tables plac\u00e9es de part et d\u2019autre d\u2019un couloir, d\u2019un frigo m\u00e9nager formant le seul \u00e9quipement \u00e9lectrique de la gargote, d\u2019une petite cuisine en arri\u00e8re-boutique et d\u2019une vitrine neutre pour satisfaire une client\u00e8le exigeante et qui a surtout, pris habitude de manger sal\u00e9 le matin. Pour r\u00e9ussir un bon sandwich, il ne faut pas de beaucoup choses. Il suffit, plut\u00f4t, d\u2019un peu de doigt\u00e9. Et \u00e7a, Th\u00e9odore l\u2019a bien compris.<\/p>\n

Pendant que le jeune Lounifi, son aide de toujours, s\u2019attelle \u00e0 pr\u00e9parer, au fur et \u00e0 mesure des besoins, les composants du sandwich, le brave Th\u00e9odore se met \u00e0 l\u2019\u0153uvre pour le plaisir des yeux avant que ce ne soit des papilles des clients qui attendent leurs tours au seuil de la porte : d\u2019un l\u00e9ger mais assez bien appuy\u00e9 coup de couteau, il fendille sur le c\u00f4t\u00e9, un petit pain viennois qu\u2019il ouvre ensuite et commence \u00e0 le farcir.<\/p>\n

Tout le secret de la r\u00e9ussite est l\u00e0 : il faut la juste dose quand il est question d\u2019\u00e9tendre un lit de pur\u00e9e de poivrons grill\u00e9s, d\u2019ajouter une cuill\u00e9r\u00e9e de salade de tomates et de concombres coup\u00e9s en d\u00e9s, de placer des variantes, de petits morceaux de pomme de terre cuite \u00e0 l\u2019eau et des olives vertes toujours luisantes et enfin, de parsemer le tout de quelques c\u00e2pres et de thon \u00e9miett\u00e9 avec une dext\u00e9rit\u00e9 dont lui seul a le secret. La derni\u00e8re touche du ma\u00eetre est r\u00e9serv\u00e9e \u00e0 une cuiller\u00e9e de harissa savamment, dilu\u00e9e \u00e0 l\u2019eau et \u00e0 un mince filet d\u2019huile d\u2019olive. Si c\u2019est \u00e0 consommer sur place, le chaland devra guetter un autre sur le point de se lever pour sauter sur l\u2019aubaine qu\u2019offre la chaise devenue, subitement, vacante et si c\u2019est \u00e0 emporter, c\u2019est toujours un plaisir d\u2019admirer la subtilit\u00e9 du geste de Th\u00e9odore arrachant un papier blanc \u00e0 la pile accroch\u00e9e \u00e0 un esse suspendu \u00e0 port\u00e9e de sa main et emballant la \u00ab pr\u00e9cieuse \u00bb collation qui aussi pris\u00e9e soit-elle, demeure accessible \u00e0 toutes les bourses puisqu\u2019elle se pr\u00e9sente, \u00e9galement, en petit format sous forme de \u00bd casse-cro\u00fbte. C\u2019est tout simplement, un sandwich r\u00e9duit de moiti\u00e9 et vendu \u00e0 moiti\u00e9 prix.<\/p>\n

Mais le matin, il n\u2019y a pas que des amateurs de casse-cro\u00fbte. Le plat tunisien a, aussi, ses adeptes. Il s\u2019agit d\u2019un sandwich au plat avec en son milieu un \u0153uf poch\u00e9 que les plus habiles des cuisini\u00e8res ont du mal \u00e0 r\u00e9ussir. Ceci est pour l\u2019\u00e9t\u00e9. Durant la saison froide, il faudra, \u00e9galement, compter avec le bol de \u00ab lablabi \u00bb bien chaud pour entamer la journ\u00e9e. Il s\u2019agit d\u2019un potage de pois chiches bouillis relev\u00e9 \u00e0 la harissa et parfum\u00e9 au cumin et \u00e0 l\u2019huile d\u2019olive. Cependant, il y a le plus de Th\u00e9odore qui consiste en une demi-louche de \u00ab bissara<\/em> \u00bb ajout\u00e9e au bol de \u00ab lablabi <\/em>\u00bb afin d\u2019en rendre le jus plus onctueux. La \u00ab bissara \u00bb est un potage de f\u00e9vettes cass\u00e9es que les juifs prennent l\u2019habitude de consommer en fin de soir\u00e9e, apr\u00e8s qu\u2019ils aient lev\u00e9 un peu trop le coude, pour parer \u00e0 une \u00e9ventuelle gueule de bois, le lendemain matin.<\/p>\n

Si le matin, on prend d\u2019assaut la gargote de Th\u00e9odore pour un \u00ab petit-dej \u00bb sal\u00e9,  l\u2019apr\u00e8s-midi, on y retourne, plut\u00f4t, pour couper la faim avec une \u00ab bricka<\/em> \u00bb  \u00e0 l\u2019\u0153uf. La grande po\u00eale \u00e0 frire remplace ainsi, la marmite de \u00ab lablabi<\/em> \u00bb sur le foyer du grand Primus \u00e0 p\u00e9trole plac\u00e9 \u00e0 l\u2019entr\u00e9e du local afin que la fum\u00e9e se d\u00e9gageant de la friture puisse se r\u00e9pandre \u00e0 l\u2019ext\u00e9rieur.<\/p>\n

Chez Th\u00e9odore, il n\u2019y a pas de \u00ab bricks<\/em> \u00bb toutes pr\u00eates. La pr\u00e9paration d\u2019une \u00ab bricka<\/em> \u00bb est instantan\u00e9e. D\u00e8s que le client s\u2019installe, Th\u00e9odore le gratifie d\u2019une petite assiette de harissa en guise d\u2019amuse-bouche et se met \u00e0 confectionner la \u00ab bricka \u00bb. Le feuillet est extrafin et le bain d\u2019huile clair et limpide est constamment, r\u00e9g\u00e9n\u00e9r\u00e9 et \u00e9cum\u00e9. Pour la farce, une pinc\u00e9e d\u2019oignons, finement, hach\u00e9s, deux ou trois petites c\u00e2pres, pas plus, l\u2019\u0153uf bien entendu, et le tour est jou\u00e9. Au final, une \u00ab bricka<\/em> \u00bb croustillante, l\u00e9g\u00e8re et facile \u00e0 dig\u00e9rer.<\/p>\n

\n

\u00ab Son concurrent sur la place s\u2019appelait Momou. Chez Th\u00e9o, c\u2019\u00e9tait \u2018bessaf\u2019 (la queue) et chez Momou, c\u2019\u00e9tait le d\u00e9sert !<\/em> <\/strong>\u00bb, se souvient Fradji Guez, un franco-tunisien de confession juive et dont le p\u00e8re \u00e9tait cordonnier \u00e0 Souk El-Belgha (le march\u00e9 des babouches) \u00e0 Nabeul.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

Une anecdote \u00e0 ce propos, toujours, selon notre ami Fradji, Momou se plaignait de ne pas avoir beaucoup de clients. Et il expliquait \u00e0 qui voulait bien l\u2019entendre qu\u2019ils avaient le m\u00eame fournisseur de feuilles de \u00ab bricks<\/em> \u00bb et utilisaient la m\u00eame huile. Bref tous les ingr\u00e9dients \u00e9taient de la m\u00eame qualit\u00e9 et pourtant les clients se pressaient chez Th\u00e9o.<\/p>\n

\n

\u00ab En fait les mauvaises langues disaient que Momou ne chauffait pas sa grande po\u00eale \u00e0 frire d\u2019huile \u00e0 la bonne temp\u00e9rature pour \u00e9conomiser quelques sous. D\u2019o\u00f9 les \u00ab bricks \u00bb n\u2019\u00e9taient pas \u2018mgarmchin\u2019 (croustillants) comme ceux de Th\u00e9o.<\/em><\/strong> \u00bb, rajoute Fradji.<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

En plus de sa g\u00e9n\u00e9rosit\u00e9, le gargotier savait, \u00e9galement, tisser des rapports souples avec sa client\u00e8le : il admettait, en effet, qu\u2019un client friand des \u0153ufs de ferme dits \u00ab arbi \u00bb, puisse ram\u00e8ner avec lui son \u0153uf pour ne payer in fine, que le feuillet, le reste de la farce et la friture.<\/p>\n

Depuis que Th\u00e9odore, \u00e0 qui l\u2019\u00e9crivain nabeulien Marco Koskas a rendu le plus beau des hommages dans son roman \u00ab J\u2019ai pas ferm\u00e9 l\u2019\u0153il de l\u2019\u00e9t\u00e9 \u00bb paru en 1996, aux \u00e9ditions Julliard, ait quitt\u00e9, d\u00e9finitivement, sa Nabeul natale, au beau milieu des ann\u00e9es 1980, tout ce qu\u2019il r\u00e9ussissait de bon est rest\u00e9 un souvenir doux et lointain et surtout un objet de d\u00e9sir impossible \u00e0 assouvir pour les nostalgiques d\u2019une \u00e9poque \u00e0 jamais r\u00e9volue.<\/p>\n

MOHAMED RACHED KHAYATI<\/h5>\n

Mohamed Rached Khayati est dipl\u00f4m\u00e9 en Tourisme de l\u2019Institut Sup\u00e9rieur de Sidi Dhrif et a consacr\u00e9 l\u2019essentiel de ses activit\u00e9s professionnelles au tourisme culturel et \u00e0 l\u2019entrepreneuriat priv\u00e9. Passionn\u00e9 de patrimoine culturel tunisien et d\u2019\u00e9criture, il a \u00e0 son actif plusieurs contributions dans la presse \u00e9crite tunisienne et participations \u00e0 diff\u00e9rents \u00e9v\u00e8nements locaux et internationaux.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

PAR MOHAMED RACHED KHAYATI Chez Th\u00e9o, de son vrai pr\u00e9nom Th\u00e9odore Chiche, alias \u00ab El-Otri \u00bb (\u2018\u0627\u0644\u0639\u0637\u0631\u064a\u2019, en arabe), pour \u00eatre pr\u00e9cis, ou encore \u00ab Tudor \u00bb comme se complaisent \u00e0 l\u2019appeler certains Nabeuliens, l\u2019\u00e9choppe ne paie pas de mine, mais le sandwich tunisien est tout simplement, succulent pour ne pas dire parfait. Il ne faut pas plus de cinq petites… <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":65052,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"neve_meta_sidebar":"","neve_meta_container":"","neve_meta_enable_content_width":"","neve_meta_content_width":0,"neve_meta_title_alignment":"","neve_meta_author_avatar":"","neve_post_elements_order":"","neve_meta_disable_header":"","neve_meta_disable_footer":"","neve_meta_disable_title":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-65051","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry"],"yoast_head":"\nChez Theodore, un sandwich et une \u00ab bricka \u00bb nommes desir ! | HARISSA.COM<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"PAR MOHAMED RACHED KHAYATI Chez Th\u00e9o, de son vrai pr\u00e9nom Th\u00e9odore Chiche, alias \u00ab El-Otri \u00bb (\u2018\u0627\u0644\u0639\u0637\u0631\u064a\u2019, en arabe), pour \u00eatre pr\u00e9cis, ou\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/harissa.com\/news-wp\/chez-theodore-un-sandwich-et-une-bricka-nommes-desir\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Chez Theodore, un sandwich et une \u00ab bricka \u00bb nommes desir ! 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