{"id":65917,"date":"2021-10-02T23:43:44","date_gmt":"2021-10-02T23:43:44","guid":{"rendered":""},"modified":"2021-10-02T23:43:44","modified_gmt":"2021-10-02T23:43:44","slug":"ma-goulette-a-moi-la-goulette-dantan-amour-coexistence-bonne-cuisine","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/harissa.com\/news-wp\/ma-goulette-a-moi-la-goulette-dantan-amour-coexistence-bonne-cuisine\/","title":{"rendered":"Ma Goulette \u00e0 moi, La Goulette d\u2019antan: amour, coexistence &#038; bonne cuisine"},"content":{"rendered":"<header>\n<p>Ma Goulette \u00e0 moi, La Goulette d\u2019antan: amour, coexistence &amp; bonne cuisine<\/p>\n<h6>&nbsp;<\/h6>\n<p>publi\u00e9 par&nbsp;Wided HAMMAMI<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<\/header>\n<p>Ceux qui ont v\u00e9cu suffisamment longtemps \u00e0 La Goulette savent reconna\u00eetre cette odeur particuli\u00e8re, ce changement de brise quand ils d\u00e9passent le canal qui traverse l\u2019avenue Franklin Roosevelt et bifurquent dans une ruelle menant \u00e0 la plage.&nbsp;Avec un ton exasp\u00e9r\u00e9, ma m\u00e8re disait toujours que ce lieu \u00e9tait une grande cuisine, surtout en \u00e9t\u00e9. On y sentait toutes sortes d\u2019odeurs. Fritures, grillades, viandes, merguez, mais surtout du poisson.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" alt=\"poissondargent-001\" id=\"soliloquy-image-6173\" src=\"https:\/\/www.mangeonsbien.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/poissondargent-001-600x400_c.jpg\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Restaurant \u00ab\u00a0Poisson d&rsquo;argent\u00a0\u00bb \u00e0 l&rsquo;avenue Franklin Roosevelt \u00e0 La Goulette (Source Photo: jarrige.fr)<ins data-ad-client=\"ca-pub-5053080735401974\" data-ad-format=\"auto\" data-adsbygoogle-status=\"done\"><ins id=\"aswift_3_expand\"><ins id=\"aswift_3_anchor\"><iframe allowfullscreen=\"true\" allowtransparency=\"true\" frameborder=\"0\" height=\"60\" hspace=\"0\" id=\"aswift_3\" marginheight=\"0\" marginwidth=\"0\" name=\"aswift_3\" onload=\"var i=this.id,s=window.google_iframe_oncopy,H=s&amp;&amp;s.handlers,h=H&amp;&amp;H[i],w=this.contentWindow,d;try{d=w.document}catch(e){}if(h&amp;&amp;d&amp;&amp;(!d.body||!d.body.firstChild)){if(h.call){setTimeout(h,0)}else if(h.match){try{h=s.upd(h,i)}catch(e){}w.location.replace(h)}}\" scrolling=\"no\" vspace=\"0\" width=\"679\"><\/iframe><\/ins><\/ins><\/ins><\/p>\n<p>Mes amis s\u2019\u00e9tonnent toujours quand ils demandent mon avis sur tel ou tel restaurant et que je leur dise n\u2019y \u00eatre jamais all\u00e9e. Pourquoi irai-je en face de chez nous manger un plat qui n\u2019\u00e9galerait jamais ceux concoct\u00e9s par les mains et l\u2019amour de ma m\u00e8re et de ma grand-m\u00e8re&nbsp;!<\/p>\n<p>Je peux encore les voir toutes les deux s\u2019affairer \u00e0 la cuisine. Ma grand-m\u00e8re \u00e9tait une femme d\u2019\u00e0 peine un m\u00e8tre cinquante alors que ma m\u00e8re, svelte et \u00e9lanc\u00e9e, faisait un m\u00e8tre soixante quinze. Ma grand-m\u00e8re scandait le nom des \u00e9pices pour que maman les cherche sur les \u00e9tag\u00e8res du haut et du bas. Du temps de ma grand-m\u00e8re, c\u2019\u00e9tait la fonction de maman \u00e0 la cuisine. Aller chercher les ingr\u00e9dients l\u00e0 o\u00f9 ils se trouvaient, les mettre \u00e0 la disposition de la capitaine pour ensuite en essuyer soigneusement les bo\u00eetes et les remettre exactement \u00e0 leur place. Voici ce qu\u2019on pouvait entendre venant de la cuisine&nbsp;: Faiza, ettebel, Faiza el corcom, Faiza elkarweyya, Faiza, non non pas l\u00e0, mets-le l\u00e0, encore un peu, fais attention\u2026<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" alt=\"jetee\" id=\"soliloquy-image-6213\" src=\"https:\/\/www.mangeonsbien.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/jetee-600x400_c.jpg\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Le Casino de \u00ab\u00a0La Jet\u00e9e\u00a0\u00bb (Source Photo: delcampe.net)<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>J\u2019ai v\u00e9cu dans une demeure familiale dont le premier propri\u00e9taire \u00e9tait un italien. Je pense que c\u2019est lui qui a fait construire la maison il y a de cela plus de cent cinquante ans. Le fer forg\u00e9 de la porte principale portait ses initiales. Un D sur la porte de gauche et un L sur celle de droite. Quand j\u2019\u00e9tais petite, j\u2019essayais de deviner son nom complet. L.D comme Lorenzo Dolleti ou peut-\u00eatre D.L comme Dario Laguno. Je me disais aussi qu\u2019il serait possible qu\u2019il ait mis les initiales de sa bien-aim\u00e9e. Les italiens \u00e9taient des romantiques n\u00e9s.<\/p>\n<p>Tous les jours, \u00e0 midi tapante, la table \u00e9tait impeccablement dress\u00e9e. Je rentrais de l\u2019\u00e9cole, l\u2019eau \u00e0 la bouche et la promesse d\u2019un moment exquis.<\/p>\n<p>De l\u2019\u00e9cole \u00e0 la maison, je parcourais trois cents m\u00e8tres et quelques dizaines de maisons. Les odeurs s\u2019en \u00e9chappaient et je m\u2019amusais \u00e0 deviner le d\u00e9jeuner de chaque famille. C\u2019\u00e9tait facile. Des odeurs typiques qui ont caress\u00e9 toute ma jeunesse. Ici, c\u2019est de la \u00ab&nbsp;gnaweyya&nbsp;\u00bb, l\u00e0 c\u2019est de la \u00ab&nbsp;mloukheyya&nbsp;\u00bb, plus loin \u00ab&nbsp;salatet blanquitte&nbsp;\u00bb \u2026 Si les mots avaient une odeur, j\u2019aurais cristallis\u00e9 ici toutes celle que je sentais alors.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"Salade &quot;Blanquitte&quot; (Cr\u00e9dit Photo: Team &quot;mangeons bien&quot;)\" height=\"450\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" src=\"https:\/\/www.mangeonsbien.tn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/Blankit2-600x450.jpg\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mangeonsbien.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/Blankit2-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.mangeonsbien.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/Blankit2-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.mangeonsbien.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/Blankit2-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.mangeonsbien.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/06\/Blankit2.jpg 1200w\" width=\"600\" \/><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_5607\"><figcaption><em><strong>\u00ab&nbsp;Salatet Blanquitte&nbsp;\u00bb (Cr\u00e9dit Photo: Team \u00ab&nbsp;mangeons bien&nbsp;\u00bb)<\/strong><\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Ma grand-m\u00e8re, Mama Nana c\u2019\u00e9tait ainsi que tout le monde l\u2019appelait,&nbsp;&nbsp;\u00e9tait une maniaque de l\u2019ordre. Dans une autre occasion, je dresserai le portrait de cette femme singuli\u00e8re qui m\u2019a toujours intrigu\u00e9e, pour ne pas dire impressionn\u00e9e.<\/p>\n<p>Au d\u00e9jeuner, il y avait invariablement, \u00e9t\u00e9 comme hiver, de la salade, de la soupe, le plat principal et le sempiternel \u00ab&nbsp;barred&nbsp;\u00bb de th\u00e9 vert \u00e0 la menthe. Chacun avait sa place autour de la table ronde, sa serviette en tissu, son assiette, son verre et son couvert. Le broc contenant de l\u2019eau de robinet et le pain, coup\u00e9 au couteau en petits morceaux tr\u00f4naient au milieu. La corbeille de fruit se posait sur un bahut surmont\u00e9 d\u2019un grand miroir dans un coin de la pi\u00e8ce.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"\" height=\"355\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, 599px\" src=\"https:\/\/www.mangeonsbien.tn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/file759_20120115_1810013405.jpg\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mangeonsbien.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/file759_20120115_1810013405.jpg 599w, https:\/\/www.mangeonsbien.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/file759_20120115_1810013405-300x178.jpg 300w\" width=\"599\" \/><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_6205\"><figcaption><em><strong>Guitare party en face du Caf\u00e9 Vert dans les ann\u00e9es 1960 (Cr\u00e9dit Photo: Collection Henri Tibi \u2013&nbsp;<a href=\"http:\/\/harissa.com\/henritibi\/index.php\/2012-12-24-10-38-37\/t\/la-goulette\/file759-916\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">harissa.com<\/a>)<\/strong><\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Personne ne pouvait s\u2019asseoir avant que la table ne fut inspect\u00e9e \u00e0 la loupe par le capitaine des lieux. Mon oncle disait toujours&nbsp;: si ma m\u00e8re avait fait des \u00e9tudes, elle serait devenue pr\u00e9sident de la r\u00e9publique sans aucun probl\u00e8me&nbsp;!<\/p>\n<p>Mama Nana exigeait que tous ses gar\u00e7ons, cinq en comptant mon p\u00e8re, passaient prendre le th\u00e9 avant de repartir travailler vers quatorze heures. C\u2019\u00e9tait pour elle l\u2019occasion de demander ce qu\u2019ils avaient mang\u00e9 chez eux et de leur faire go\u00fbter son plat du jour. C\u2019\u00e9tait aussi pour confirmer une fois de plus que ses belles-filles ne lui arrivaient pas \u00e0 la cheville quand il s\u2019agissait de cuisine.<\/p>\n<p>Les apr\u00e8s-midis \u00e9taient tr\u00e8s anim\u00e9s au 46 avenue Roosevelt. Les femmes, Mama Nana, ses filles, belles-filles et visiteuses de passage, se mettaient dans une petite pi\u00e8ce en face de la cuisine pour papoter. Ces r\u00e9unions tournaient autour de deux sujets principaux&nbsp;: les histoires de couple et la bouffe.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"\" height=\"431\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, 599px\" src=\"https:\/\/www.mangeonsbien.tn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/file240_20100714_1728307451.jpg\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mangeonsbien.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/file240_20100714_1728307451.jpg 599w, https:\/\/www.mangeonsbien.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/file240_20100714_1728307451-300x216.jpg 300w\" width=\"599\" \/><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_6206\"><figcaption><em><strong>De gauche \u00e0 droite: Magy Hayoun, Yvan Samama, Am\u00e9d\u00e9 Attia et son \u00e9pouse Josiane Halfon au Caf\u00e9 Vert \u00e0 La Goulette dans les ann\u00e9es 1980 (Cr\u00e9dit Photo: Collection Henri Tibi \u2013&nbsp;<a href=\"http:\/\/harissa.com\/henritibi\/index.php\/component\/joomgallery\/la-goulette\/file240-545\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">harissa.com)<\/a><\/strong><\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Quand il s\u2019agissait de cuisine, ma grand-m\u00e8re n\u2019acceptait aucun compromis:<\/p>\n<p>\u2013 Non, jamais, jamais jamais. Jamais on ne fait des pommes de terre au four avec de la viande de veau ou de la gnaweyya avec la viande de mouton voyons&nbsp;!<\/p>\n<p>\u2013 Mais Mama&nbsp;Nana, je n\u2019ai pas trouv\u00e9 chez Am Bouraoui de la viande de mouton<\/p>\n<p>\u2013 Alors fais autre chose bon sang&nbsp;! (dans mes souvenirs, bon sang correspondait \u00e0 woh ya nari).<\/p>\n<p>Malgr\u00e9 mon caract\u00e8re rebelle, je me rends compte que j\u2019ai bien gard\u00e9 en moi toutes ces consignes et tout le rituel qui va avec. Etant maman, charg\u00e9e, entre autres de la cuisine, je ne suis jamais arriv\u00e9e \u00e0 enfreindre une r\u00e8gle.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"\" height=\"403\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" src=\"https:\/\/www.mangeonsbien.tn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/Salem-600x403.jpg\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mangeonsbien.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/Salem-600x403.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.mangeonsbien.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/Salem-300x201.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.mangeonsbien.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/Salem-768x516.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.mangeonsbien.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/Salem.jpg 855w\" width=\"600\" \/><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_6207\"><figcaption><em><strong>Salem, le c\u00e9l\u00e8bre serveur du Caf\u00e9 Vert \u00e0 la Goulette en plein service (Cr\u00e9dit Photo: Collection Henri Tibi \u2013&nbsp;<a href=\"http:\/\/harissa.com\/henritibi\/index.php\/component\/joomgallery\/la-goulette\/file611-705\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">harissa.com<\/a>)<\/strong><\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>J\u2019aimais beaucoup La Goulette en hiver. Ce port avait un charme incomparable et secret. Souvent, quand j\u2019entendais les bateaux siffler un d\u00e9part, je m\u2019imaginais aux commandes du navire, roulant les vagues vers une destination inconnue.<\/p>\n<p>Mais l\u2019\u00e9t\u00e9, avec son vacarme, ses estivants dont les visages avaient fini par devenir familiers et ses terrasses de caf\u00e9s et restaurants bond\u00e9es, avait aussi un go\u00fbt sp\u00e9cial.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"\" height=\"398\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" src=\"https:\/\/www.mangeonsbien.tn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/cafe_vert_20100714_1540827651-600x398.jpg\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mangeonsbien.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/cafe_vert_20100714_1540827651-600x398.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.mangeonsbien.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/cafe_vert_20100714_1540827651-300x199.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.mangeonsbien.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/cafe_vert_20100714_1540827651-768x509.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.mangeonsbien.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/cafe_vert_20100714_1540827651.jpg 1010w\" width=\"600\" \/><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_6238\"><figcaption><em><strong>Un apr\u00e8s-midi au Caf\u00e9 Vert (Cr\u00e9dit Photo: Collection Henri Tibi \u2013&nbsp;<a href=\"http:\/\/harissa.com\/henritibi\/index.php\/2012-12-24-10-38-37\/t\/photos-envoyees-par-henri-a-fab\/cafevert-655\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">harissa.com<\/a>)<\/strong><\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Enfants, nous sortions en bande et \u00e0 pieds faire la navette entre la \u00ab&nbsp;Karaka&nbsp;\u00bb (Ex: Fort Charles-Quint) et le canal. On faisait le chemin plusieurs fois et on appelait cela&nbsp;: coudre l\u2019avenue.<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" alt=\"3512-la-goulette-le-port-et-le-fort\" id=\"soliloquy-image-6191\" src=\"https:\/\/www.mangeonsbien.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/3512-la-goulette-le-port-et-le-fort-600x400_c.jpg\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Le Port et le Fort Charles-Quint, dit \u00ab\u00a0Karraka\u00a0\u00bb \u00e0 La Goulette (Cr\u00e9dit Photo: tunisie.vitaminech.com)<\/p>\n<p>Quelques dizaines de millimes nous permettaient d\u2019acheter les bambalounis de Am Hssan ou ses pommes de terre en chips et des glibettes qu\u2019on d\u00e9cortiquait avec nos dents en regardant la mer et balan\u00e7ant nos jambes pardessus les f\u00fbts vides sur lesquels on s\u2019asseyait.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"\" height=\"432\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 599px) 100vw, 599px\" src=\"https:\/\/www.mangeonsbien.tn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/la_goulette_1_20100606_1189365817.jpg\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mangeonsbien.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/la_goulette_1_20100606_1189365817.jpg 599w, https:\/\/www.mangeonsbien.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/la_goulette_1_20100606_1189365817-300x216.jpg 300w\" width=\"599\" \/><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_6204\"><figcaption><em><strong>Glibettes party au Caf\u00e9 Vert \u00e0 La Goulette dans les ann\u00e9es 1970 (Cr\u00e9dit Photo: Henri Tibi \u2013&nbsp;<a href=\"http:\/\/harissa.com\/henritibi\/index.php\/2012-12-24-10-38-37\/t\/la-goulette\/la-goulettejgauploadimagenameseparator1-35\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">harissa.com<\/a>)<\/strong><\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Nous passions devant les restaurants, petites gargotes o\u00f9 le menu \u00e9tait le m\u00eame partout&nbsp;: salade tunisienne, bricks \u00e0 l\u2019\u0153uf g\u00e9ants dont la p\u00e2te \u00e9tait pr\u00e9par\u00e9e sur place et un complet poisson.<\/p>\n<p>Et les restaurants de la belle&nbsp;Goulette sont uniques et tous charg\u00e9s d\u2019histoire. Sinon, comment peut-on oublier l\u2019ic\u00f4ne \u00ab&nbsp;Chez Bichi&nbsp;\u00bb, roi du complet poisson, ensuite rebaptis\u00e9 &nbsp;\u00ab&nbsp;Le Vert Galant&nbsp;\u00bb avant de mettre la clef sous la porte \u00e0 la fin des ann\u00e9es soixante-dix ?<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"\" height=\"359\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" src=\"https:\/\/www.mangeonsbien.tn\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/BICHI-La-Goulette-Tunis-13-8-55-600x359.jpg\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mangeonsbien.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/BICHI-La-Goulette-Tunis-13-8-55-600x359.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.mangeonsbien.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/BICHI-La-Goulette-Tunis-13-8-55-300x179.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.mangeonsbien.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/BICHI-La-Goulette-Tunis-13-8-55.jpg 739w\" width=\"600\" \/><\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_6163\"><figcaption><em><strong>Un repas en famille au restaurant \u00ab&nbsp;Chez Bichi&nbsp;\u00bb, le 13 ao\u00fbt 1955 \u00e0 La Goulette (Cr\u00e9dit Photo: C. Ferraty\/<a href=\"http:\/\/harissa.com\/D_Souvenirs\/chezbichi.htm\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\">harissa.com)<\/a><\/strong><\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Il y a aussi le fameux \u00ab&nbsp;La Victoire&nbsp;\u00bb des fr\u00e8res Razgallah, le \u00ab&nbsp;V\u00e9nus&nbsp;\u00bb, le mythique resto-caf\u00e9 \u00ab&nbsp;Le Caf\u00e9 Vert&nbsp;\u00bb et son serveur, le souriant \u00ab&nbsp;Salem&nbsp;\u00bb ou le \u00ab&nbsp;Monte Carlo&nbsp;\u00bb: que des tables bien r\u00e9put\u00e9es pour la dext\u00e9rit\u00e9 de leurs chefs et la fra\u00eecheur de leur complet de poisson.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Enfin, qui dit La Goulette, \u00e9voque sans aucun doute le \u00ab&nbsp;Lucullus&nbsp;\u00bb, le convivial&nbsp;restaurant \u00ab&nbsp;La Spigola&nbsp;\u00bb, le familial \u00ab&nbsp;La Mer&nbsp;\u00bb, l\u2019\u00e9l\u00e9gant &nbsp;\u00bb Le Chalet goulettois&nbsp;\u00bb, fond\u00e9 en 1947 par Feu H\u00e9di Krandel, puis rebaptis\u00e9 \u00ab&nbsp;Le chalet&nbsp;\u00bb tout court<em>&nbsp;<\/em>et le regrettable&nbsp;<a href=\"http:\/\/www.webdo.tn\/2015\/08\/05\/les-vingt-ans-de-mamie-lily-le-dernier-restaurant-cacher-de-la-goulette-fait-revivre-la-cuisine-juive-tunisienne\/\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"><strong>\u00ab&nbsp;Mamie Lily&nbsp;\u00bb<\/strong><\/a>, la derni\u00e8re table casher de Tunis, dont&nbsp;<a href=\"http:\/\/www.middleeasteye.net\/fr\/reportages\/la-fermeture-de-mamie-lily-institution-du-patrimoine-juif-tunisien-428563243\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\" target=\"_blank\"><strong>le propri\u00e9taire Gilles Jacob Lellouche a fini par jeter son tablier de cuisine en 2016, apr\u00e8s vint-ans de loyaux services suite \u00e0 de s\u00e9rieuses menaces de mort<\/strong><\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><img decoding=\"async\" alt=\"jacob-lellouche-maintient-toujours-la-fermeture-de-chez-mamy-lily\" id=\"soliloquy-image-6177\" src=\"https:\/\/www.mangeonsbien.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2017\/07\/jacob-lellouche-maintient-toujours-la-fermeture-de-chez-mamy-lily-600x400_c.jpg\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Une ambiance conviviale (Source Photo: La Presse de Tunisie)<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Les souvenirs affluent quand on les appelle. Ils arrivent parfois d\u00e9form\u00e9s, parfois d\u00e9cal\u00e9s, mais portent souvent un parfum typique qui colle au narines et \u00e0 la peau.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Ma Goulette \u00e0 moi, La Goulette d\u2019antan: amour, coexistence &amp; bonne cuisine &nbsp; publi\u00e9 par&nbsp;Wided HAMMAMI &nbsp; Ceux qui ont v\u00e9cu suffisamment longtemps \u00e0 La Goulette savent reconna\u00eetre cette odeur particuli\u00e8re, ce changement de brise quand ils d\u00e9passent le canal qui traverse l\u2019avenue Franklin Roosevelt et bifurquent dans une ruelle menant \u00e0 la plage.&nbsp;Avec un&hellip;&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":65918,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"neve_meta_sidebar":"","neve_meta_container":"","neve_meta_enable_content_width":"","neve_meta_content_width":0,"neve_meta_title_alignment":"","neve_meta_author_avatar":"","neve_post_elements_order":"","neve_meta_disable_header":"","neve_meta_disable_footer":"","neve_meta_disable_title":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-65917","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v28.6 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Ma Goulette \u00e0 moi, La Goulette d\u2019antan: amour, coexistence &amp; 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