{"id":66699,"date":"2022-03-28T19:41:35","date_gmt":"2022-03-28T19:41:35","guid":{"rendered":""},"modified":"2022-03-28T19:41:35","modified_gmt":"2022-03-28T19:41:35","slug":"habitudes-culinaires-goulettoises-du-xxe-siecle","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/harissa.com\/news-wp\/habitudes-culinaires-goulettoises-du-xxe-siecle\/","title":{"rendered":"Habitudes culinaires goulettoises du XXe si\u00e8cle"},"content":{"rendered":"<div class=\"bdaia-post-style5-head\">\n<div class=\"bd-container\">\n<header class=\"bdaia-post-header\">\n<div class=\"bdaia-post-title\">\n<p class=\"post-title entry-title\"><span>Habitudes culinaires goulettoises du XXe si\u00e8cle<\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<div class=\"bdaia-meta-info\">\n<div class=\"bdaia-post-author-name\">Par Alfonso Campisi<\/div>\n<div class=\"bdaia-post-like\">&nbsp;<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/header>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p class=\"p6\">Il y a quelques jours, je suis tomb\u00e9, tout \u00e0 fait par hasard, sur un texte du d\u00e9but du si\u00e8cle dernier, qui d\u00e9crit l\u2019alimentation des Goulettois musulmans, juifs et chr\u00e9tiens. Un document pr\u00e9cieux \u00e0 mes yeux, o\u00f9 l\u2019on peut retrouver certains mets de l\u2019\u00e9poque. Je d\u00e9sire partager une partie de ce texte avec mes lecteurs.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p7\">En effet, un vieux dicton r\u00e9citait comme suit : \u00abLa moiti\u00e9 des habitants de La Goulette passe son temps \u00e0 pr\u00e9parer \u00e0 manger \u00e0 l\u2019autre moiti\u00e9\u00bb. Un tr\u00e8s beau dicton qui annonce d\u00e9j\u00e0 la couleur, le partage et la joie de vivre des Goulettois autour d\u2019une table.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p7\">Ce vieux manuscrit reporte ce qui suit : \u00abA la v\u00e9rit\u00e9, le Goulettois est frugal, pour les repas \u00e0 la maison, mais il ne lui d\u00e9pla\u00eet pas : \u201cd\u2019amuser la gueule\u201d \u00e0 toute heure le pla\u00e7ant parmi les \u201cgens d\u2019esprit\u201d\u00bb.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p7\">Matineux, il d\u00e9guste chez lui une cr\u00e8me de \u201cDroo\u201d, sorgho ou un grand verre de citronnade avec le croquant tremp\u00e9, ou bien le \u201cftayer\u201d, beignet traditionnel avec des figues fra\u00eeches ou encore pour accompagner la boutargue de thon, la petite couronne de pain blanc m\u00e9lang\u00e9 de farine et de semoule, dont la qualit\u00e9 avait d\u00e9j\u00e0 \u00e9t\u00e9 vant\u00e9e en 1842 par le commandant Auguste Henry de la marine fran\u00e7aise qui avait mouill\u00e9 quelques mois en rade de La Goulette \u00e0 bord du \u201cTonnerre\u201d.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p7\">Le soir, \u00e0 la soupe en famille, il pr\u00e9f\u00e8re se rassasier chez le gargotier d\u2019une grillade de foie et de merguez ou d\u2019une friture de rougets ou de mulets. A toute heure, m\u00eame en travaillant, il grignote de petits g\u00e2teaux, de fruits secs, des graines de courge, import\u00e9es en tonnes d\u2019Autriche ou encore des graines de past\u00e8que\u00bb. Ce qui m\u2019a paru curieux et amusant, c\u2019est que selon Raoul Darmon, l\u2019auteur de ce texte, un bon chef de famille moderne est consid\u00e9r\u00e9 celui qui est capable de comprendre la qualit\u00e9 du melon en le remuant pr\u00e8s de son oreille et comme tout Tunisien, il consomme en \u00e9t\u00e9, beaucoup de \u201cgannaouia\u201d (gombos), l\u00e9gume cultiv\u00e9 dans les pr\u00e9s sal\u00e9s de Sidi Daoud et qui est transport\u00e9 \u00e0 Tunis dans un fourgon sp\u00e9cial du premier train du matin, surnomm\u00e9 \u201ctrain gannaouia\u201d.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p7\">On peut encore lire qu\u2019un des mets incontournables du Goulettois, c\u2019est le \u201cbrik\u201d, cette p\u00e2te feuillet\u00e9e qu\u2019on farcit d\u2019\u0153uf, de viande et de poisson avant de la frire, parfois garnie (pour les plus gourmands) de p\u00e2te d\u2019amandes avant de la passer au miel. Le manuscrit nous indique aussi o\u00f9 on pouvait manger le meilleur brik de La Goulette et c\u2019\u00e9tait \u201cChez Lalou, le roi du brik\u201d une vieille baraque avec une vieille planche pour porte et une enseigne \u00e9crite au charbon. Lalou, qui s\u2019est auto-couronn\u00e9 le \u201croi du Brik\u201d, demeurait accroupi \u00e0 l\u2019int\u00e9rieur pr\u00e8s d\u2019un \u201ccanoun\u00bb, sur lequel se trouvait une po\u00eble d\u2019huile bouillante pr\u00eate \u00e0 recevoir la p\u00e2te du \u201cBrik\u201d, servi aux clients dans de petites assiettes m\u00e9talliques. Le probl\u00e8me, c\u2019\u00e9tait que Lalou avait \u00e0 quelques m\u00e8tres de sa baraque, Ishak, un autre \u201croi du brik\u201d de confession juive.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p7\">Et \u00e0 ce propos, j\u2019aime vous faire part d\u2019une histoire goulettoise fort sympathique. Un gros personnage officiel tunisien, pour r\u00e9galer ses invit\u00e9s, avait trouv\u00e9 que le \u201cbrik\u201d confectionn\u00e9 \u201cChez Lalou\u201d, avait moins de go\u00fbt que celui pr\u00e9par\u00e9 \u201cChez Ishak\u201d se trouvant au coin de la m\u00eame rue. Il songea alors \u00e0 faire venir Ishak chez lui, et apr\u00e8s l\u2019avoir gratifi\u00e9 d\u2019un v\u00eatement neuf, lui avoir fait tailler la barbe et les cheveux, mit \u00e0 sa disposition une po\u00eble toute neuve, de l\u2019huile vierge, de la semoule de choix, des \u0153ufs de premi\u00e8re fra\u00eecheur. H\u00e9las, les briks n\u2019arrivaient pas \u00e0 avoir aussi bon go\u00fbt que ceux pr\u00e9par\u00e9s par notre artisan dans sa pauvre baraque.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p7\">Interpell\u00e9 par le ma\u00eetre, il balbutia \u00abque voulez-vous, ici il manque l\u2019ambiance et la boukha !\u00bb.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Habitudes culinaires goulettoises du XXe si\u00e8cle Par Alfonso Campisi &nbsp; Il y a quelques jours, je suis tomb\u00e9, tout \u00e0 fait par hasard, sur un texte du d\u00e9but du si\u00e8cle dernier, qui d\u00e9crit l\u2019alimentation des Goulettois musulmans, juifs et chr\u00e9tiens. Un document pr\u00e9cieux \u00e0 mes yeux, o\u00f9 l\u2019on peut retrouver certains mets de l\u2019\u00e9poque. Je&hellip;&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":66700,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"neve_meta_sidebar":"","neve_meta_container":"","neve_meta_enable_content_width":"","neve_meta_content_width":0,"neve_meta_title_alignment":"","neve_meta_author_avatar":"","neve_post_elements_order":"","neve_meta_disable_header":"","neve_meta_disable_footer":"","neve_meta_disable_title":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-66699","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v28.6 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Habitudes culinaires goulettoises du XXe si\u00e8cle | HARISSA.COM<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Habitudes culinaires goulettoises du XXe si\u00e8cle Par Alfonso Campisi &nbsp; Il y a quelques jours, je suis tomb\u00e9, tout \u00e0 fait par hasard, sur un texte du\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/harissa.com\/news-wp\/habitudes-culinaires-goulettoises-du-xxe-siecle\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Habitudes culinaires goulettoises du XXe si\u00e8cle | HARISSA.COM\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Habitudes culinaires goulettoises du XXe si\u00e8cle Par Alfonso Campisi &nbsp; 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