{"id":66705,"date":"2022-03-28T21:31:43","date_gmt":"2022-03-28T21:31:43","guid":{"rendered":""},"modified":"2022-03-28T21:31:43","modified_gmt":"2022-03-28T21:31:43","slug":"la-vieille-synagogue-de-la-hara","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/harissa.com\/news-wp\/la-vieille-synagogue-de-la-hara\/","title":{"rendered":"LA VIEILLE SYNAGOGUE DE LA HARA"},"content":{"rendered":"
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LA VIEILLE SYNAGOGUE DE LA HARA<\/span><\/div>\n
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Henri SLAMA<\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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Pour continuer \u00e0 \u00e9voquer des souvenirs qui s\u2019estompent et disparaissent au fil des ann\u00e9es, je me souviens de cette vieille synagogue de la Hara, l\u2019ancien quartier juif de Tunis, rue Errakah.<\/span><\/div>\n
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Pour y arriver, il fallait de pr\u00e9f\u00e9rence, passer par le quartier r\u00e9serv\u00e9 de la ville, ou de pauvres femmes se tenaient devant chaque porte. Nous passions tr\u00e8s vite, sans parler, en serrant nos livres de pri\u00e8re sous le bras<\/span><\/div>\n
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Quand je dis synagogue, ce n\u2019est probablement pas le mot que \u00e7a \u00e9voque, juste une pi\u00e8ce dans une oukala, une grande cour, avec un puits au milieu, plusieurs chambres tout autour, occup\u00e9es par des familles juives mis\u00e9rables, mont\u00e9es de l\u2019extr\u00eame sud tunisien ou de Tripolitaine, pour fuir la mis\u00e8re. Pour toutes ces pi\u00e8ces et un premier \u00e9tage du m\u00eame style, il y avait un unique W.C. A l\u2019occasion des grandes f\u00eates, les murs de ces chambres et ceux de la cour \u00e9taient blanchis \u00e0 la chaux bleut\u00e9es, teinte tr\u00e8s reposante pour les yeux.<\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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L\u2019immeuble tout entier appartenait \u00e0 une famille musulmane qui n\u2019avait jamais demand\u00e9 de loyer pour la chambre qui servait de lieu de culte, une maison de Dieu, comme ils disaient, et cela depuis des g\u00e9n\u00e9rations.<\/span><\/div>\n
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La grande pi\u00e8ce qui servait de synagogue \u00e9tait entour\u00e9e de bancs construits en dur, d\u00e9cor\u00e9s avec une fa\u00e7ade en carreaux de fa\u00efence, \u00e0 la mode andalouse et recouverts de nattes. Les rouleaux de la Thora, les sepharim, \u00e9taient rang\u00e9s dans une armoire au fond de la chambre.<\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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L\u2019officiant se tenait dans la cour, devant une table haute, rustique, antique, construite par quelqu\u2019un qui n\u2019avait que des notions tr\u00e8s limit\u00e9es de l\u2019art de la menuiserie. <\/span><\/div>\n
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Aujourd\u2019hui malgr\u00e9 de nombreuses recherches, il n\u2019a pas \u00e9t\u00e9 possible de localiser ce lieu, ni m\u00eame la rue, tout le quartier ayant \u00e9t\u00e9 d\u00e9moli et reconstruit dans cette partie de la ville..<\/span><\/div>\n
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Dans cette synagogue, deux familles en particulier venaient de la ville europ\u00e9enne et presque tout le reste des fid\u00e8les venait des logements alentour et de cette oukala<\/span><\/div>\n
Ces deux familles \u00e9taient les Raccah et les Slama qui toutes deux pr\u00e9tendaient en avoir \u00e9t\u00e9 les fondateurs des si\u00e8cles auparavant.<\/span><\/div>\n
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Dans ma premi\u00e8re jeunesse, l\u2019office \u00e9tait dirig\u00e9 collectivement par le grand p\u00e8re Raccah et le grand p\u00e8re Slama et chaque fois c\u2019\u00e9tait des contestations m\u00e9morables entre les deux vieux sur ce qu\u2019il convenait de lire ce jour l\u00e0 et dans quel ordre .En plus les gens du coin, ajoutaient leur grain de sel, car ils chantaient abominablement faux et \u00e0 contre temps, en finissant le verset alors que l\u2019assembl\u00e9e le commen\u00e7ait.. D\u2019o\u00f9 de multiples rappels \u00e0 l\u2019ordre.<\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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Nos livres de pri\u00e8res, en particulier pour les offices des grandes f\u00eates \u00e9taient imprim\u00e9s \u00e0 Vienne, en Autriche ou \u00e0 Livourne et Venise. Les pri\u00e8res et les chants avaient \u00e9t\u00e9 compos\u00e9s par les grands ma\u00eetres de l\u2019age d\u2019or espagnol, les rabbins po\u00e8tes Judas Hal\u00e9vy, Ibn Gabirol ou Maimonide, mais les Tunisiens voulaient \u00e0 tout prix intercaler plusieurs fois au cours de l\u2019office un chant compos\u00e9 par un rabbin tunisien, chant qui n\u2019existait dans aucun livre. IL fallait donc tenir \u00e0 port\u00e9e une feuille volante, au moment fatidique, pour pouvoir suivre l\u2019officiant. L\u2019honneur \u00e9tait donc sauf.<\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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Dans l\u2019assembl\u00e9e, il y avait donc le groupe des Slama d\u2019un cot\u00e9 ; le Slama ( importateur de machines agricoles am\u00e9ricaines) qui occupait le banc central, mon grand p\u00e8re qui officiait, mon p\u00e8re et moi jeune gar\u00e7on.<\/span><\/div>\n
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Les Raccah \u00e9taient beaucoup plus nombreux, le grand-p\u00e8re, ses deux fils architectes, le petit fils qui allait bient\u00f4t s\u2019engager \u00e0 la guerre et y mourir durant la dr\u00f4le de campagne., un vieux monsieur tr\u00e8s distingu\u00e9 \u00e0 l\u2019allure de gentleman britannique, son fils bel homme qui nous impressionnait parce qu\u2019il avait \u00e9pous\u00e9 , fait exceptionnel \u00e0 cette \u00e9poque, une grande blonde su\u00e9doise, , un repr\u00e9sentant d\u2019un important agent de change parisien, un autre cousin parti par la suite s\u2019installer en Isra\u00ebl et devenu d\u00e9put\u00e9 \u00e0 la Knesset, m\u2019a-t-on dit.<\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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Je me souviens, en particulier d\u2019un jour de Yom Kippour en 1937 , je crois , de l\u2019agitation qui avait saisi l\u2019assembl\u00e9e en pri\u00e8re. Vers 11 heures du matin, quelqu\u2019un \u00e9tait arriv\u00e9 \u00e0 la synagogue, apr\u00e8s avoir \u00e9cout\u00e9 un poste de radio. Ce jour l\u00e0, L\u00e9on Blum avait tra\u00eetreusement op\u00e9r\u00e9 la d\u00e9valuation du franc , en profitant de la f\u00eate de yom Kippour pendant lequel la bourse \u00e9tait ferm\u00e9e \u00e0 Paris. Le repr\u00e9sentant de l\u2019agent de change parisien \u00e9tait questionn\u00e9 fi\u00e9vreusement et requestionn\u00e9 .Qu\u2019est-ce qui va se passer, l\u2019importateur, l\u2019exportateur, le commer\u00e7ant se posaient des questions sans fin. Ils avaient tous oubli\u00e9 pourquoi ils \u00e9taient l\u00e0 et l\u2019officiant devait s\u2019\u00e9nerver pour faire cesser les conciliabules<\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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Lorsqu\u2019on arrivait au cr\u00e9puscule, apr\u00e8s avoir pri\u00e9 et chant\u00e9 toute la journ\u00e9e, et qu\u2019il fallait d\u00e9cider de la fin du jeune, ( la confiance dans les montres \u00e9tant limit\u00e9e), quelques personnes montaient sur la terrasse de l\u2019immeuble et scrutaient le ciel. D\u00e8s qu\u2019elles avaient aper\u00e7u trois \u00e9toiles, le signal de la fin de l\u2019office \u00e9tait donn\u00e9. Le rabbin sonnait du schofar, la corne de b\u00e9lier. On se congratulait dans un grand brouhaha et on s\u2019appr\u00eatait \u00e0 rentrer chez soi.<\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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Cela voulait dire, apr\u00e8s une journ\u00e9e de je\u00fbne, boire une citronnade fra\u00eeche, faire son choix parmi tous les plateaux de g\u00e2teaux, mais \u00e0 mon grand d\u00e9sespoir les grands p\u00e8res trouvaient que c\u2019\u00e9tait le moment ou jamais de faire la pri\u00e8re de b\u00e9n\u00e9diction \u00e0 la lune, dans la rue, o\u00f9 on se rendait en groupe.<\/span><\/div>\n
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Et, tout le monde reprenait alors, seulement, le chemin de la maison, la conscience tranquille..<\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

\"Carte<\/p>\n

Plan dessine et envoye par Avraham Bar-Shay<\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

LA VIEILLE SYNAGOGUE DE LA HARA   Henri SLAMA   Pour continuer \u00e0 \u00e9voquer des souvenirs qui s\u2019estompent et disparaissent au fil des ann\u00e9es, je me souviens de cette vieille synagogue de la Hara, l\u2019ancien quartier juif de Tunis, rue Errakah.   Pour y arriver, il fallait de pr\u00e9f\u00e9rence, passer par le quartier r\u00e9serv\u00e9 de… <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":66706,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"neve_meta_sidebar":"","neve_meta_container":"","neve_meta_enable_content_width":"","neve_meta_content_width":0,"neve_meta_title_alignment":"","neve_meta_author_avatar":"","neve_post_elements_order":"","neve_meta_disable_header":"","neve_meta_disable_footer":"","neve_meta_disable_title":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-66705","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry"],"yoast_head":"\nLA VIEILLE 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