{"id":66735,"date":"2022-04-09T23:08:07","date_gmt":"2022-04-09T23:08:07","guid":{"rendered":""},"modified":"2022-04-09T23:08:07","modified_gmt":"2022-04-09T23:08:07","slug":"la-paque-juive-de-raegan-steinberg-et-dalex-cohen","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/harissa.com\/news-wp\/la-paque-juive-de-raegan-steinberg-et-dalex-cohen\/","title":{"rendered":"La P\u00e2que juive de Raegan Steinberg et d\u2019Alex Cohen"},"content":{"rendered":"

La P\u00e2que juive de Raegan Steinberg et d\u2019Alex Cohen<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

\n
Marie-Claude Di Lillo – LeDevoir<\/span><\/div>\n

Lorsqu\u2019on \u00e9voque la sc\u00e8ne culinaire de Montr\u00e9al, on ne peut oublier l\u2019influence de la culture juive. Si la m\u00e9tropole poss\u00e8de ses classiques (le smoked-meat<\/i> de chez Schwartz\u2019s, les bagels Saint-Viateur, les sandwichs de salami de boeuf de Wilensky), une nouvelle g\u00e9n\u00e9ration de restaurants juifs s\u2019installe depuis quelques ann\u00e9es dans notre paysage gastronomique. Le Arthurs Nosh Bar en fait partie et le couple Steinberg-Cohen, derri\u00e8re son concept, contribue \u00e0 faire rayonner cette cuisine traditionnelle avec une touche personnelle et moderne. Rencontre avec deux jeunes chefs pour en conna\u00eetre un peu plus sur le repas qu\u2019ils avaient l\u2019habitude de prendre lors de cette c\u00e9l\u00e9bration.<\/p>\n

\u00c0 la rencontre des deux chefs<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

Quand Alex et Raegan \u00e9laborent en 2016 les premiers menus du Arthurs, dont le nom est un hommage au p\u00e8re d\u00e9c\u00e9d\u00e9 de Raegan, ils choisissent de revisiter des plats typiques de leur h\u00e9ritage culinaire juif.<\/p>\n

Bien qu\u2019ils soient tous deux de m\u00eame confession, la cuisine des deux familles est un peu diff\u00e9rente, puisque celle de Raegan a des racines russes et roumaines, alors que celle d\u2019Alex est d\u2019origine marocaine. Le menu du Arthurs s\u2019inspire donc de la cuisine juive d\u2019Europe de l\u2019Est, ashk\u00e9naze, et de celle du Maroc, s\u00e9pharade.<\/p>\n

Cependant, ce sont surtout des plats d\u2019inspiration ashk\u00e9naze qui composent le menu du resto. \u00ab On voulait faire une cuisine juive dite ap\u00e9ritive, compos\u00e9e de menus l\u00e9gers et de poissons. La cuisine ashk\u00e9naze s\u2019y pr\u00eatait bien avec son saumon fum\u00e9, ses matzah<\/i>, ses sandwichs de schnitzel<\/i> et ses latkes<\/i> \u00bb, mentionne Alex. Il ajoute qu\u2019ils ont quand m\u00eame int\u00e9gr\u00e9 quelques plats juifs marocains, comme la chakchouka<\/i>, servie pour le brunch.<\/p>\n

De plus, certaines recettes, comme la soupe aux matzah balls<\/i>, ont \u00e9t\u00e9 revisit\u00e9es avec une touche un peu plus \u00ab marocaine \u00bb : avec oignons grill\u00e9s, poivrons et coriandre fra\u00eeche. Cette soupe, un incontournable du Arthurs Nosh Bar, est aussi un plat important aux f\u00eates de Pessah dans la culture ashk\u00e9naze. \u00ab Chez nous, dit Raegan, on n\u2019\u00e9tait pas tr\u00e8s religieux, mais on c\u00e9l\u00e9brait quand m\u00eame en famille les f\u00eates avec les plats traditionnels, commen\u00e7ant toujours par la soupe aux matzah balls. <\/i>\u00bb<\/p>\n

\u00c0 la fois nostalgique et religieux<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n

Raegan se rappelle avec nostalgie les repas de son enfance. \u00ab Mon p\u00e8re adorait manger, il c\u00e9l\u00e9brait la nourriture ! Ma m\u00e8re cuisinait longtemps et disposait plusieurs plats sur la table, tel le gefilte fish<\/i>, un poisson blanc farci et servi froid avec une sauce raifort, ou la salade d\u2019aubergine cuite avec poivrons rouges d\u2019inspiration roumaine et pour le dessert, du g\u00e2teau au chocolat sans levain et des poires poch\u00e9es. \u00bb<\/p>\n

\u00ab Nous, on est plus pointilleux sur la religion que dans la famille de Raegan, souligne Alex. Si, d\u2019ordinaire, on se permet quelques \u00e9carts, quand arrive Pessah, on mange strictement casher et on suit les rituels traditionnels, comme celui du S\u00e9der. \u00bb<\/p>\n

Chez les Marocains, la viande au menu est sans contredit l\u2019agneau. \u00ab Cependant, \u00e0 Pessah, cela prend une dimension symbolique. \u00bb Alex explique que Pessah c\u00e9l\u00e8bre la lib\u00e9ration des Juifs de l\u2019esclavage des pharaons. \u00ab Pessah veut dire \u201cpasser par-dessus ; les isra\u00e9lites et leurs derniers-n\u00e9s sont pass\u00e9s par-dessus la mort gr\u00e2ce au sang de l\u2019agneau \u00e9tal\u00e9 sur leurs portes, \u00e9pargn\u00e9s par l\u2019Ange de la mort lors de la derni\u00e8re plaie d\u2019\u00c9gypte. La tradition veut donc qu\u2019on mange de l\u2019agneau en m\u00e9moire de cet \u00e9v\u00e9nement marquant. \u00bb M\u00eame la soupe servie au repas en contient. \u00ab Chez nous, pas de soupe aux matzah balls<\/i> ; on sert plut\u00f4t une soupe aux pois cass\u00e9s avec de l\u2019agneau brais\u00e9, \u00bb pr\u00e9cise Alex.<\/p>\n

D\u2019autres plats font aussi partie du rituel de S\u00e9der : \u00ab Le harosset<\/i>, une pur\u00e9e faite d\u2019un m\u00e9lange de noix, de figues, de dattes, de pommes et de vin rouge repr\u00e9sente le mortier que les esclaves pr\u00e9paraient pour construire les pyramides. Tous les plats sont associ\u00e9s \u00e0 des \u00e9v\u00e9nements de la lib\u00e9ration du peuple juif \u00bb, explique Alex.<\/p>\n

Il ajoute que, durant ce rituel, son p\u00e8re r\u00e9cite, en chantant, les pri\u00e8res traditionnelles. Il raconte, en s\u2019adressant surtout aux enfants, l\u2019histoire de l\u2019Exode et explique la signification symbolique de chacun des plats servis au repas.<\/p>\n

Chez les juifs marocains seulement, on c\u00e9l\u00e8bre la mimouna, au 8e<\/sup> jour de Pessah, avec une vari\u00e9t\u00e9 de desserts o\u00f9 l\u2019utilisation de la levure est permise apr\u00e8s avoir \u00e9t\u00e9 interdite pendant les 7 derniers jours. La vedette de cette table est la moufletta<\/i>, une cr\u00eape feuillet\u00e9e faite pour cette c\u00e9l\u00e9bration. \u00ab Durant cette soir\u00e9e, on cogne aux portes des voisins pour les inviter \u00e0 manger et on se fait inviter aussi dans leurs maisons. On voit du monde et on d\u00e9guste des d\u00e9lices marocains. C\u2019est un moment tellement heureux ! \u00bb relate Alex.<\/p>\n

Nos deux chefs recevront bient\u00f4t leurs familles dans leur nouvelle maison. Ils esp\u00e8rent garder leurs traditions vivantes et les transmettre \u00e0 leurs enfants.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

La P\u00e2que juive de Raegan Steinberg et d\u2019Alex Cohen   Marie-Claude Di Lillo – LeDevoir Lorsqu\u2019on \u00e9voque la sc\u00e8ne culinaire de Montr\u00e9al, on ne peut oublier l\u2019influence de la culture juive. Si la m\u00e9tropole poss\u00e8de ses classiques (le smoked-meat de chez Schwartz\u2019s, les bagels Saint-Viateur, les sandwichs de salami de boeuf de Wilensky), une nouvelle… <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":66736,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"neve_meta_sidebar":"","neve_meta_container":"","neve_meta_enable_content_width":"","neve_meta_content_width":0,"neve_meta_title_alignment":"","neve_meta_author_avatar":"","neve_post_elements_order":"","neve_meta_disable_header":"","neve_meta_disable_footer":"","neve_meta_disable_title":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-66735","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry"],"yoast_head":"\nLa P\u00e2que juive de Raegan Steinberg et d\u2019Alex Cohen | HARISSA.COM<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"La P\u00e2que juive de Raegan Steinberg et d\u2019Alex Cohen   Marie-Claude Di Lillo - 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