{"id":67851,"date":"2023-02-13T00:11:41","date_gmt":"2023-02-13T00:11:41","guid":{"rendered":""},"modified":"2023-02-13T00:11:41","modified_gmt":"2023-02-13T00:11:41","slug":"le-sentier-dans-la-tempete","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/harissa.com\/news-wp\/le-sentier-dans-la-tempete\/","title":{"rendered":"Le Sentier dans la temp\u00eate"},"content":{"rendered":"<p class=\"fig-headline fig-pagination__hidden\">Le Sentier dans dans la temp\u00eate<\/p>\n<p class=\"fig-headline fig-pagination__hidden\">Kooka\u00ef, Cop.Copine, Andr\u00e9, San Marina&#8230; La d\u00e9routante faillite des marques de mode des ann\u00e9es 90<\/p>\n<div class=\"fig-wrapper fig-zone-main fig-heading-article etx-relative\">\n<div class=\"fig-wrapper fig-zone-main fig-content-metas-info\"><span class=\"fig-content-metas__authors\">Par&nbsp;Mitia Bernetel &#8211; Madame Figaro<\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p class=\"fig-standfirst\">H\u00e9catombe chez les enseignes de mode phares des ann\u00e9es 1990-2000. Redressement judiciaire, liquidations, plan social&#8230; En grande difficult\u00e9, toute une g\u00e9n\u00e9ration de marques fran\u00e7aises est en train de sombrer.<\/p>\n<div class=\"fig-content-body\" data-agora-base-url=\"https:\/\/connect.lefigaro.fr\" data-component=\"fig-content-body\" data-context=\"was @visible\" data-id=\"bWFkYW1lLmxlZmlnYXJvLmZyX19kNDRlYWUwZC1hNmNlLTExZWQtOGZmMC1hMDM2OWY5MWYzMDRfX0FydGljbGU=\" data-module=\"fig-body\" data-premium=\"false\">\n<p class=\"fig-paragraph\">Pour toute une g\u00e9n\u00e9ration, elles \u00e9taient des points d&rsquo;\u00e9tapes cl\u00e9s des emplettes du samedi apr\u00e8s-midi. Aujourd&rsquo;hui, Kooka\u00ef, Cop.Copine ou encore Pimkie, parmi d&rsquo;autres marques fran\u00e7aises embl\u00e9matiques des ann\u00e9es 1990-2000, sombrent dans une interminable descente aux enfers. Depuis le d\u00e9but du mois de f\u00e9vrier, et dans le sillage de la liquidation de Cama\u00efeu fin 2022, les d\u00e9cisions judiciaires s&rsquo;accumulent dans le paysage textile de l&rsquo;Hexagone. Vis\u00e9es, ces enseignes de mode moyenne gamme et accessibles qui connaissaient autrefois des chiffres d&rsquo;affaires \u00e0 neuf chiffres sont dans la tourmente. Une mauvaise passe aux airs de clap de fin pour tout un pan de l&rsquo;industrie mode fran\u00e7aise n\u00e9 \u00e0 la fin du XXe si\u00e8cle.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<h2 class=\"fig-body-heading\" id=\"subhead-4bc4fe6b-0efa-486c-a51a-fdbb91f96b1a\">F\u00e9vrier noir<\/h2>\n<p class=\"fig-paragraph\">Le 1er f\u00e9vrier, le Tribunal de commerce de Paris a proc\u00e9d\u00e9 au redressement de Kooka\u00ef (groupe Vivarte), marque du Sentier cr\u00e9\u00e9e en 1983, ainsi que de l&rsquo;enseigne is\u00e9roise Go Sport. Dans la foul\u00e9e, Cop.Copine plonge. En redressement judiciaire depuis le 7 novembre 2022, la marque fond\u00e9e par la famille N\u00e9d\u00e9lian s&rsquo;\u00e9teint apr\u00e8s trente-sept ans d&rsquo;activit\u00e9, faute d&rsquo;offre de reprise. Le chausseur marseillais San Marina (groupe Vivarte \u00e9galement) pourrait subir le m\u00eame sort apr\u00e8s son redressement judiciaire annonc\u00e9 en septembre 2022 et l&rsquo;annonce, le 6 f\u00e9vrier, de l&rsquo;\u00e9chec de son projet de reprise. Quant \u00e0 l&rsquo;enseigne lilloise Pimkie, en phase de rachat imminente, elle pourrait annoncer au printemps un plan social qui entra\u00eenerait la suppression de 500 emplois, rapporte le m\u00e9dia <em>Fashion Network<\/em> . Ce 8 f\u00e9vrier c&rsquo;est au tour du sp\u00e9cialiste de la chaussure Andr\u00e9, dont la cr\u00e9ation remonte \u00e0 1896, d&rsquo;\u00eatre plac\u00e9 en redressement par le tribunal de Paris, pour la deuxi\u00e8me fois en trois ans. Une v\u00e9ritable s\u00e9rie noire qui vient ternir un secteur du pr\u00eat-\u00e0-porter fran\u00e7ais d\u00e9j\u00e0 \u00e9branl\u00e9.<\/p>\n<p class=\"fig-paragraph\">Au mois d&rsquo;octobre, la marque Cama\u00efeu fermait les portes de ses 511 boutiques dans l&rsquo;Hexagone. Longtemps qualifi\u00e9e de fleuron fran\u00e7ais de l&rsquo;habillement, l&rsquo;enseigne nordiste, cr\u00e9\u00e9e il y a trente-huit ans par quatre anciens cadres du groupe Mulliez, s&rsquo;\u00e9tait fait une place particuli\u00e8re dans le c\u0153ur des Fran\u00e7aises qui l&rsquo;avaient d\u00e9sign\u00e9e comme leur \u00abmarque de v\u00eatements pr\u00e9f\u00e9r\u00e9e\u00bb dans les ann\u00e9es 2010. Si elle a finalement \u00e9t\u00e9 acquise aux ench\u00e8res par Celio (pour la somme de 1,8 million d&rsquo;euros) le 7 d\u00e9cembre, sa liquidation a entra\u00een\u00e9 2600 licenciements. Les pr\u00e9mices d&rsquo;une d\u00e9b\u00e2cle pour un secteur autrefois florissant, mais qui a pein\u00e9 \u00e0 faire face aux changements et aux coups durs durant cette derni\u00e8re d\u00e9cennie.<\/p>\n<h2 class=\"fig-body-heading\" id=\"subhead-5abdfd2f-a276-4272-af67-fa6212ae354d\">Un secteur dans la temp\u00eate<\/h2>\n<p class=\"fig-paragraph\">Comment ces marques de mode se sont-elles retrouv\u00e9es dans l&rsquo;impasse&nbsp;? Parmi les facteurs fragilisants \u00e9voqu\u00e9s&nbsp;: le triomphe de l\u2019e-commerce, un virage pas toujours pris \u00e0 temps pour ces enseignes qui ont \u00e9t\u00e9 cr\u00e9\u00e9es aux pr\u00e9mices de l&rsquo;\u00e8re du digital. L&rsquo;arriv\u00e9e d&rsquo;une nouvelle concurrence, l&rsquo;ultrafast fashion, l&rsquo;av\u00e8nement de la seconde main ou simplement la saturation de l&rsquo;offre dans cette gamme accessible entrent \u00e9galement en ligne de compte. Tout comme les erreurs de gestion. C&rsquo;est le cas pour Pimkie, et les enseignes de l&rsquo;homme d&rsquo;affaires Michel Ohayon (propri\u00e9taire et ex-propri\u00e9taire de plusieurs entreprises en difficult\u00e9 comme Cama\u00efeu, Go Sport et Gap France, \u00e9galement en qu\u00eate de repreneurs), qui admet avoir parfois fait fausse route dans un entretien pour <em>Challenge<\/em> . Aggrav\u00e9 par la crise du Covid 19, le contexte ne laisse rien pr\u00e9sager de bon pour les enseignes stars de la fin du XXe si\u00e8cle.<\/p>\n<p class=\"fig-paragraph\">Pour ces derni\u00e8res, le retour de la mode des ann\u00e9es 2000, et les initiatives pour rester au go\u00fbt du jour (comme des discours \u00e9cologiques chez Kooka\u00ef et Pimkie, le lancement d&rsquo;une gamme premium pour San Marina ou de la vente d&rsquo;articles de seconde main pour Pimkie et Go Sport), n\u2019ont pas suffi \u00e0 convaincre. D&rsquo;autant que l&rsquo;\u00e9poque a chang\u00e9, et avec elle les pr\u00e9occupations des consommateurs. Selon une \u00e9tude Ifop r\u00e9alis\u00e9e avec Purpose Lab et Nouveau Mod\u00e8le en 2021, 51% des Fran\u00e7ais interrog\u00e9s affirmaient ne pas faire confiance aux engagements \u00e9thiques et \u00e9cologiques des grandes marques et 64% se disaient pr\u00eats \u00e0 payer plus cher pour atteindre ces crit\u00e8res. De quoi d\u00e9stabiliser profond\u00e9ment toute une g\u00e9n\u00e9ration d&rsquo;enseignes de milieu de gamme, qui ont vu le jour dans un contexte o\u00f9 le langage esth\u00e9tique pr\u00e9valait sur le vocabulaire \u00e9thique.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Le Sentier dans dans la temp\u00eate Kooka\u00ef, Cop.Copine, Andr\u00e9, San Marina&#8230; La d\u00e9routante faillite des marques de mode des ann\u00e9es 90 Par&nbsp;Mitia Bernetel &#8211; Madame Figaro H\u00e9catombe chez les enseignes de mode phares des ann\u00e9es 1990-2000. Redressement judiciaire, liquidations, plan social&#8230; En grande difficult\u00e9, toute une g\u00e9n\u00e9ration de marques fran\u00e7aises est en train de sombrer.&hellip;&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":67852,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"neve_meta_sidebar":"","neve_meta_container":"","neve_meta_enable_content_width":"","neve_meta_content_width":0,"neve_meta_title_alignment":"","neve_meta_author_avatar":"","neve_post_elements_order":"","neve_meta_disable_header":"","neve_meta_disable_footer":"","neve_meta_disable_title":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-67851","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v28.6 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Le Sentier dans la temp\u00eate | HARISSA.COM<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Le Sentier dans dans la temp\u00eate Kooka\u00ef, Cop.Copine, Andr\u00e9, San Marina... 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