{"id":69993,"date":"2024-09-01T18:46:42","date_gmt":"2024-09-01T18:46:42","guid":{"rendered":""},"modified":"2024-09-01T18:46:42","modified_gmt":"2024-09-01T18:46:42","slug":"musso-chetcuti-pino-quand-nos-boulangers-parlaient-italien","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/harissa.com\/news-wp\/musso-chetcuti-pino-quand-nos-boulangers-parlaient-italien\/","title":{"rendered":"Musso, Chetcuti &#038; Pino: quand nos boulangers parlaient italien"},"content":{"rendered":"<header>\n<p>Musso, Chetcuti &amp; Pino: quand nos boulangers parlaient italien<\/p>\n<p>publi\u00e9 par&nbsp;Hatem BOURIAL<\/header>\n<hr \/>\n<p>L\u2019expression&nbsp;<strong>\u00ab&nbsp;khobz talian&nbsp;\u00bb<\/strong>&nbsp;revenait souvent dans notre langage quotidien. Elle n\u2019est plus usit\u00e9e depuis que les gros pains ont peu \u00e0 peu disparu au profit de la baguette.<\/p>\n<p>En effet, jusqu\u2019aux ann\u00e9es 1970, les pains vendus chez nos boulangers r\u00e9pondaient souvent \u00e0 des appellations ethniques, si vous permettez l\u2019expression.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_14801\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"italien\" height=\"420\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" src=\"https:\/\/www.mangeonsbien.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/pain-arbi-600x420.jpg\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mangeonsbien.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/pain-arbi-600x420.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.mangeonsbien.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/pain-arbi-300x210.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.mangeonsbien.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/pain-arbi-768x538.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.mangeonsbien.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/pain-arbi.jpg 1200w\" width=\"600\" \/><figcaption><em><strong>Un boulanger djerbien dans les ann\u00e9es 1970 vendant du \u00ab&nbsp;kohobz arbi&nbsp;\u00bb (pain traditionnel) (Source photo: delcampe.net)<\/strong><\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>On parlait ainsi aussi bien de pain&nbsp;<strong>\u00ab&nbsp;arbi&nbsp;\u00bb<\/strong>,&nbsp;<strong>\u00ab&nbsp;talian&nbsp;\u00bb<\/strong>,&nbsp;<strong>\u00ab&nbsp;viennois&nbsp;\u00bb<\/strong>&nbsp;ou encore&nbsp;<strong>\u00ab&nbsp;francis&nbsp;\u00bb<\/strong>. Ainsi, par exemple, le&nbsp;<strong>\u00ab&nbsp;khobz arbi&nbsp;\u00bb<\/strong>&nbsp;qui sortait du four du quartier se d\u00e9clinait selon deux grandes vari\u00e9t\u00e9s&nbsp;<strong>\u00ab&nbsp;tbaq&nbsp;\u00bb<\/strong>&nbsp;et&nbsp;<strong>\u00ab&nbsp;smid&nbsp;\u00bb<\/strong>&nbsp;qui avaient une apparence et un go\u00fbt diff\u00e9rents.<\/p>\n<p>Ceci dit, le&nbsp;<strong>\u00ab&nbsp;khobz talian&nbsp;\u00bb<\/strong>&nbsp;avait les faveurs de tous et a continu\u00e9 \u00e0 \u00eatre demand\u00e9 bien longtemps apr\u00e8s le d\u00e9part des artisans italiens. De fait, la qualit\u00e9 de ce pain et sa singularit\u00e9 se sont peu \u00e0 peu d\u00e9grad\u00e9s. Le nom \u00e9tait rest\u00e9 mais d\u00e9signait tout autre chose: un pain grossier \u00e0 la farine trop raffin\u00e9e et \u00e0 la cuisson imparfaite.<\/p>\n<p>Devant cette d\u00e9gringolade qualitative, le pain&nbsp;<strong>\u00ab&nbsp;talian&nbsp;\u00bb<\/strong>&nbsp;finira par tirer sa r\u00e9v\u00e9rence et dispara\u00eetre de nos radars. De nos jours, c\u2019est le r\u00e8gne incontestable d\u2019une baguette aussi norm\u00e9e qu\u2019insipide et indigeste.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_14800\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"italien\" height=\"400\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" src=\"https:\/\/www.mangeonsbien.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/talian-600x400.jpg\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mangeonsbien.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/talian-600x400.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.mangeonsbien.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/talian-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.mangeonsbien.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/talian-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.mangeonsbien.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/talian.jpg 1024w\" width=\"600\" \/><figcaption><em><strong>\u00ab&nbsp;Khobz talian&nbsp;\u00bb (pain italien) (Cr\u00e9dit photo: Antonio Pedroni)<\/strong><\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Il n\u2019en a pas toujours \u00e9t\u00e9 ainsi. Car chez certains boulangers d\u2019origine italienne ou maltaise, le pain \u00e9tait un v\u00e9ritable festin. Chaque ville avait ses boulangers italiens attitr\u00e9s qui apportaient de la diversit\u00e9 sur nos tables.<\/p>\n<p>C\u2019est par exemple le cas du fameux Saliba \u00e0 Grombalia et c\u2019est aussi ce qui a fait les parcours de Musso, Chetcuti, Cupioli ou Pino&nbsp;\u00e0 Tunis. Il est d\u2019ailleurs certain que chacun de nos lecteurs pourrait citer une lign\u00e9e de boulangers italiens qu\u2019il soient de Sousse, Sfax, Bizerte (Ex: Martinelli) ou ailleurs.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_14802\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"italien\" height=\"373\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" src=\"https:\/\/www.mangeonsbien.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/il_fornaio-600x373.jpg\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mangeonsbien.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/il_fornaio.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.mangeonsbien.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/il_fornaio-300x187.jpg 300w\" width=\"600\" \/><figcaption><em><strong>Chez Saliba \u00e0 Grombalia dans les ann\u00e9es 1950 (Source photo: Karim Souissi)<\/strong><\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Ce dont je me souviens bien dans ces boulangeries, ce sont les grands pr\u00e9sentoirs et aussi les coupoirs qui servaient \u00e0 d\u00e9biter le pain. En ce temps, le pain d\u2019un kilo \u00e9tait monnaie courante et on se contentait parfois d\u2019une simple tranche.<\/p>\n<p>Chez ces boulangers, tout avait sa place: la&nbsp;<strong>focaccia<\/strong>&nbsp;bien craquante, le&nbsp;<strong>sfilatino<\/strong>&nbsp;aussi effil\u00e9 que le sugg\u00e8re son nom et aussi la&nbsp;<strong>mafalda sicilienne<\/strong>&nbsp;au s\u00e9same et la&nbsp;<strong>cuddura<\/strong>&nbsp;aux tresses si reconnaissables.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_14804\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" alt=\"italien\" height=\"450\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" src=\"https:\/\/www.mangeonsbien.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/foca-600x450.jpg\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.mangeonsbien.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/foca.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.mangeonsbien.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/06\/foca-300x225.jpg 300w\" width=\"600\" \/><figcaption><em><strong>Focaccia (Source photo: Soleil De Lumi\u00e8re)<\/strong><\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Quant au pain proprement dit, le fameux \u00ab&nbsp;khobz talian&nbsp;\u00bb, il \u00e9tait objet de toutes les attentions. Avec sa mie blanche et ses entailles si caract\u00e9ristiques, il \u00e9tait souvent couvert de nigelle et sortait tout chaud du fournil.<\/p>\n<p>C\u2019est ce pain volumineux dont une vari\u00e9t\u00e9 \u00e9tait nomm\u00e9e \u00ab&nbsp;zigzag&nbsp;\u00bb qui habite encore nos m\u00e9moires. Son fumet capiteux et sa consistance me semblent irrempla\u00e7ables mais \u00e0 jamais disparus.<\/p>\n<p>D\u2019ailleurs, le pain blanc, dodu et inimitable de nos casse-cro\u00fbte d\u2019antan sortait g\u00e9n\u00e9ralement de ces boulangeries.<\/p>\n<p>Ave pane italiano ! M\u00eame si nous continuons \u00e0 avoir du bon pain, tu nous manques bien cruellement\u2026<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Musso, Chetcuti &amp; Pino: quand nos boulangers parlaient italien publi\u00e9 par&nbsp;Hatem BOURIAL L\u2019expression&nbsp;\u00ab&nbsp;khobz talian&nbsp;\u00bb&nbsp;revenait souvent dans notre langage quotidien. Elle n\u2019est plus usit\u00e9e depuis que les gros pains ont peu \u00e0 peu disparu au profit de la baguette. En effet, jusqu\u2019aux ann\u00e9es 1970, les pains vendus chez nos boulangers r\u00e9pondaient souvent \u00e0 des appellations ethniques,&hellip;&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":69994,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"neve_meta_sidebar":"","neve_meta_container":"","neve_meta_enable_content_width":"","neve_meta_content_width":0,"neve_meta_title_alignment":"","neve_meta_author_avatar":"","neve_post_elements_order":"","neve_meta_disable_header":"","neve_meta_disable_footer":"","neve_meta_disable_title":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-69993","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v28.6 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Musso, Chetcuti &amp; Pino: quand nos boulangers parlaient italien | HARISSA.COM<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Musso, Chetcuti &amp; 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