{"id":70355,"date":"2024-12-14T17:31:18","date_gmt":"2024-12-14T17:31:18","guid":{"rendered":""},"modified":"2024-12-14T17:31:18","modified_gmt":"2024-12-14T17:31:18","slug":"a-djerba-chez-youna-les-recettes-juives-de-hara-kebira","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/harissa.com\/news-wp\/a-djerba-chez-youna-les-recettes-juives-de-hara-kebira\/","title":{"rendered":"\u00c0 Djerba, \u00ab Chez Youna \u00bb, les recettes juives de Hara Kebira"},"content":{"rendered":"
\n

\u00c0 Djerba, \u00ab Chez Youna \u00bb, les recettes juives de Hara Kebira<\/p>\n

par Hatem BOUR<\/span>IAL<\/span><\/p>\n

Aux portes de Houmt Souk, \u00e0 Djerba, le petit village de Hara Kebira continue \u00e0 pr\u00e9server son identit\u00e9 juive. On y trouve ainsi une communaut\u00e9 install\u00e9e en ces lieux depuis des lustres, une communaut\u00e9 qui vit paisiblement \u00e0 l\u2019ombre sacr\u00e9e de ses synagogues.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n<\/header>\n

Dans une rue passante de ce village se trouve l\u2019un des conservatoires de la cuisine juive tunisienne. Pour \u00eatre plus pr\u00e9cis, il s\u2019agit d\u2019un petit restaurant de quartier o\u00f9 l\u2019on peut d\u00e9guster des pr\u00e9parations casher sur le pouce. Ici c\u2019est \u00ab Chez Youna \u00bb et le slogan que j\u2019ai invent\u00e9 pour ces lieux qui ne paient pas de mine est le suivant: \u00ab Chez Youna, c\u2019est mieux que bon! \u00bb.<\/p>\n

On y vient simplement pour un en-cas mais ce que Youna pr\u00e9pare est succulent et m\u00e9rite plus qu\u2019un d\u00e9tour. A chacune de mes visites dans l\u2019\u00eele et sans exag\u00e9ration aucune, je me pr\u00e9cipite les papilles en alerte, chez l\u2019ami Youna.<\/p>\n

Mes festins \u00e0 cette enseigne sont des plus simples. Ils ont pour nom bricks et fricass\u00e9s<\/strong>. Youna a un tel tour de main qu\u2019il parvient \u00e0 en faire que l\u2019on ne peut go\u00fbter nulle part ailleurs. Dans ses fricass\u00e9s menus et dor\u00e9s \u00e0 point, ce sont peut \u00eatre les c\u00e2pres qu\u2019il ajoute ou la sauce dont il les enduit qui sont son arme secr\u00e8te. Ses briks sont quant \u00e0 eux indescriptibles, croustillants \u00e0 souhait et avec un oeuf juste comme il faut. Et l\u00e0 encore, je ne sais pas quels sont les tout petits riens qu\u2019il ajoute et qui font toute la diff\u00e9rence.<\/p>\n

Ce n\u2019est pas fini: la maison est aussi fameuse pour ses keftas et ses banatages. Youna les r\u00e9ussit comme un chef qui ma\u00eetriserait les arcanes les plus insondables de l\u2019alchimie de notre cuisine juive tunisienne. Une simple croquette et vous voil\u00e0 comme transport\u00e9 dans le temps des saveurs les plus imp\u00e9n\u00e9trables.<\/p>\n

Encore une tourn\u00e9e! Chez Youna, il y a aussi du poulet grill\u00e9 que les voisins sont nombreux \u00e0 venir acheter pour le shabbat. C\u2019est bien entendu cacher et cela a toutes les saveurs du branches d\u2019olivier dont est pourvu le petit grill qui se trouve devant la boutique.<\/p>\n

Et si le coeur vous en dit, un petit bol de mdamess n\u2019est jamais de refus. Cette soupe de f\u00e8ves est des plus r\u00e9ussis et je m\u2019en r\u00e9gale \u00e0 chaque visite. C\u2019est que, sant\u00e9 ou pas, je me l\u00e2che chez Youna avec une sorte d\u2019obligation morale de go\u00fbter \u00e0 tout.<\/p>\n

En g\u00e9n\u00e9ral, mon menu est invariable avec les f\u00e8ves en soupe pour commencer, un brik tout de suite apr\u00e8s, deux fricass\u00e9s pour la r\u00e9sistance et une pi\u00e8ce de kefta et une autre de banatage pour terminer. Gargantua \u00e0 Djerba, mais que voulez-vous, tout est si irr\u00e9sistible!<\/p>\n

Je ne terminerai pas cette \u00e9vocation sans une mention sp\u00e9ciale, que dis-je! c\u2019est plut\u00f4t de palme d\u2019or ou de C\u00e9sar qu\u2019il faudrait parler. C\u2019est que pendant que je d\u00e9guste comme un cycliste en pleine ascension d\u2019une alpe, Youna m\u2019a pr\u00e9par\u00e9 le petit colis sans lequel je ne repars jamais. Vous allez rire car ce sont vingt sachets de kakis que j\u2019emporte avec moi et qui sont mon vade mecum pour les longs ap\u00e9ros au soleil.<\/p>\n

Les kakis de Youna, c\u2019est une autre dimension. D\u2019abord, ils ne se pr\u00e9sentent pas comme les autres kakis car ils sont comme de petits rubans dor\u00e9s et creux \u00e0 l\u2019int\u00e9rieur. On les savoure sous la dent puis ils fondent dans le palais. Pas trop sal\u00e9s, ils ont le croquant d\u2019un pain azyme bien frais et la texture de ces biscuits \u00e0 l\u2019italienne.<\/p>\n

De forme rectangulaire, ils font six centim\u00e8tres de long et deux de large et tiennent dans des petits paquets que Youna remplit patiemment. Repu, joyeux et nostalgique, je quitte la petite \u00e9choppe pour revenir \u00e0 pied \u00e0 Houmt Souk, non sans un regard pour le restaurant d\u2019Isaac chez qui je me rends de temps en temps. Le lendemain, retour \u00e0 Tunis avec ma pr\u00e9cieuse cargaison et la m\u00e9moire vive de toutes les saveurs gourmandes.<\/p>\n

Et, \u00e0 chaque fois rebelote, retour \u00e0 Djerba et direction Youna\u2026<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

\u00c0 Djerba, \u00ab Chez Youna \u00bb, les recettes juives de Hara Kebira par Hatem BOURIAL Aux portes de Houmt Souk, \u00e0 Djerba, le petit village de Hara Kebira continue \u00e0 pr\u00e9server son identit\u00e9 juive. On y trouve ainsi une communaut\u00e9 install\u00e9e en ces lieux depuis des lustres, une communaut\u00e9 qui vit paisiblement \u00e0 l\u2019ombre sacr\u00e9e de… <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":70356,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"neve_meta_sidebar":"","neve_meta_container":"","neve_meta_enable_content_width":"","neve_meta_content_width":0,"neve_meta_title_alignment":"","neve_meta_author_avatar":"","neve_post_elements_order":"","neve_meta_disable_header":"","neve_meta_disable_footer":"","neve_meta_disable_title":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-70355","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry"],"yoast_head":"\n\u00c0 Djerba, \u00ab Chez Youna \u00bb, les recettes juives de Hara Kebira | HARISSA.COM<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"\u00c0 Djerba, \u00ab Chez Youna \u00bb, les recettes juives de Hara 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