{"id":70621,"date":"2025-03-09T06:58:45","date_gmt":"2025-03-09T06:58:45","guid":{"rendered":""},"modified":"2025-03-09T06:58:45","modified_gmt":"2025-03-09T06:58:45","slug":"ramadan-dantan-quand-les-beys-de-tunis-se-procuraient-leur-zlabia-a-nabeul","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/harissa.com\/news-wp\/ramadan-dantan-quand-les-beys-de-tunis-se-procuraient-leur-zlabia-a-nabeul\/","title":{"rendered":"Ramadan d\u2019antan: quand les Beys de Tunis se procuraient leur \u00ab zlabia \u00bb \u00e0 Nabeul"},"content":{"rendered":"
\n

publi\u00e9 par Team \u00ab\u00a0Mangeons Bien\u00a0\u00bb<\/span>, <\/span><\/p>\n<\/header>\n

Texte: Mohamed Rached KHAYATI<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u00c9dition, collecte des t\u00e9moignages et photoreportage: Team \u00ab mangeons bien \u00bb<\/strong><\/p>\n

Cr\u00e9dit photos anciennes: \u00ab Collection Salah NAJAR \u00bb, Monique Hayoun & Neila HALI<\/strong><\/p>\n

\n

Nabeul<\/strong> et sa s\u0153ur de lait Dar Cha\u00e2bane<\/strong> ont, de tout temps, \u00e9t\u00e9 r\u00e9put\u00e9es pour leur \u00ab zlabia<\/strong> \u00bb succulente. Elles ont toujours eu ceci en commun sauf que pour la derni\u00e8re nomm\u00e9e, la qualit\u00e9 est toujours au top, \u00e7a n\u2019a pas boug\u00e9 d\u2019un iota. Et c\u2019est tant mieux. Pour ce qui est de la ville des potiers, disons, tout simplement, que la rel\u00e8ve n\u2019a pas \u00e9t\u00e9 assur\u00e9e.<\/p>\n

M\u00eame le sursaut d\u2019honneur du brave Salah Najar qui a tent\u00e9 de relancer l\u2019activit\u00e9 familiale \u00e0 son d\u00e9part \u00e0 la retraite, il y a quelques ann\u00e9es, n\u2019a pas \u00e9t\u00e9 suffisant pour nous r\u00e9concilier avec la qualit\u00e9 dans la dur\u00e9e, avec cette douceur ramadanesque qui avait \u00e9t\u00e9 pour longtemps, un vrai d\u00e9lice des palais beylicaux des trois derniers souverains de la dynastie<\/strong><\/em> <\/strong><\/em><\/a>husseinite<\/strong><\/em> (Ahmed II Bey<\/strong><\/em>, Moncef Bey<\/strong><\/em> <\/em><\/a>et Lamine Bey<\/strong><\/em> \u2013 Ndlr) \u2013 c\u2019est \u00e0 comprendre dans les deux sens \u2013 et qui n\u00e9cessitait pour son transport en mode hippomobile jusqu\u2019aux s\u00e9rails du Bardo, de Carthage ou d\u2019Hammam-Lif, tout d\u00e9pendait de la rotation saisonni\u00e8re du ramadan, l\u2019emballage herm\u00e9tique en terre cuite, encore en usage de nos jours.<\/p>\n

Il n\u2019\u00e9tait un secret pour personne que les anciens ma\u00eetres-p\u00e2tissiers nabeuliens faisaient dans la dentelle pour confectionner une \u00ab zlabia \u00bb si finement ajour\u00e9e, qu\u2019on pouvait, ais\u00e9ment, la comparer \u00e0 la dentelle dans laquelle excelle jusqu\u2019\u00e0 ce jour, la gent f\u00e9minine nabeulienne. Pour le bonheur des fins gourmets, ce plaisir des yeux et de la bouche est encore possible \u00e0 Dar Cha\u00e2bane.<\/p>\n

S\u2019agissant des livraisons de SAR le Bey de Tunis<\/strong> <\/a>et de ses vizirs, les fabriques de c\u00e9ramique nabeulienne les plus renomm\u00e9es rivalisaient de savoir-faire pour r\u00e9aliser les plus beaux emballages en terre cuite \u00e9maill\u00e9e et finement, histori\u00e9e, enlumin\u00e9e et calligraphi\u00e9e. Cheikh Mohamed Tahar Khayati, calligraphe \u00e0 ses heures perdues, \u00e9tait tr\u00e8s sollicit\u00e9 pour cette noble t\u00e2che. Si la \u00ab zlabia \u00bb de Nabeul avait eu tout cet aura, c\u2019est parce qu\u2019il y avait eu des ma\u00eetres-p\u00e2tissiers qui s\u2019\u00e9taient investis dans cette activit\u00e9 typique de toute la Tunisie certes, mais jamais \u00e9gal\u00e9e quand il s\u2019agit de production nabeulienne pure. <\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

La \u00ab zlabia \u00bb & ses grands ma\u00eetres-p\u00e2tissiers <\/strong><\/h1>\n

Parmi ces orf\u00e8vres de la p\u00e2tisserie bien de chez nous, le regrett\u00e9 Abdelkader Najar, affectueusement, appel\u00e9 \u00ab Bay Gader \u00bb par la majorit\u00e9 des Nabeuliens et dont l\u2019\u00e9choppe se trouvait \u00e0 \u00ab Bab Bled \u00bb, \u00e0 l\u2019entr\u00e9e des souks couverts, pouvait se targuer d\u2019en avoir \u00e9t\u00e9 la figure la plus embl\u00e9matique pour avoir pris part \u00e0 des \u00e9v\u00e9nements d\u2019envergure internationale tels que l\u2019Exposition Coloniale Internationale de Paris en 1931<\/strong>, qui lui a valu une m\u00e9daille d\u2019or, la seconda mostra internazionale d\u2019arte coloniale<\/em> (Naples 1934), l\u2019Exposition Universelle de Bruxelles en 1935<\/strong>, l\u2019Exposition universelle de 1937<\/b>, <\/strong><\/a>officiellement<\/strong> Exposition internationale des \u00ab Arts et des Techniques appliqu\u00e9s \u00e0 la Vie moderne<\/b> \u00bb<\/b><\/a>, la Foire commerciale de Lille en 1938, <\/b>la Foire Internationale de Lyon en 1939<\/strong> <\/a>ou encore, en outre-Atlantique et \u00ab The Sesqui-Centennial International Exposition<\/strong> of 1926 in Philadelphia, United States of Amercia<\/strong> \u00bb (l\u2019Exposition de Philadelphie qui a c\u00e9l\u00e9br\u00e9 le 150e anniversaire de la signature de la d\u00e9claration d\u2019ind\u00e9pendance des \u00c9tats-Unis et le 50e anniversaire de l\u2019exposition du centenaire de 1876 -ndlr). En plus de l\u2019art de la p\u00e2tisserie, \u00ab Bay Gader \u00bb excellait \u00e9galement, dans celui des chants soufis. N\u2019avait-il pas, en effet, \u00e9t\u00e9 membre de la prestigieuse troupe de \u00ab soulamia \u00bb de Cheikh Khema\u00efs Ternane \u00e0 Bizerte avant de rejoindre celle du mythique Jaghali \u00e0 Nabeul ?<\/p>\n

D\u2019autres non moins habiles sp\u00e9cialistes de la \u00ab zlabia \u00bb nabeulienne avaient, \u00e9galement, marqu\u00e9 de leurs empreintes la p\u00e2tisserie traditionnelle tels que les regrett\u00e9s Abdel Aziz Slimane et par la suite son fils Mohamed (au passage sous-vo\u00fbte jouxtant la Grande mosqu\u00e9e) qui en plus de sa dext\u00e9rit\u00e9 manuelle dans la confection de la zlabia \u00e9tait r\u00e9put\u00e9 fin lettr\u00e9 et homme de savoir.<\/p>\n

\n

\u00ab Pour satisfaire la grande commande de SAR le Bey, ma m\u00e8re affirmait que \u00ab Bay Gader \u00bb Najar sollicitait mes grand-p\u00e8re, Mohamed Ben Abdel Aziz Slimane. \u00c0 l\u2019\u00e9poque, les ma\u00eetres-p\u00e2tissiers s\u2019entraidaient pour respecter les d\u00e9lais de livraison des \u00ab zlabia \u00bb du Ramadan au s\u00e9rail beylical. <\/strong><\/em>\u00bb, souligne Ne\u00efla Hali, petite-fille de Mohamed Ben Abdel Aziz Slimane.<\/strong><\/em><\/h3>\n<\/blockquote>\n

En 1985, c\u2019\u00e9tait le tour de l\u2019apprenti de Si Mohamed, Salem Ben Sassi de reprendre le flambeau. Et, aujourd\u2019hui, c\u2019est le neveu de ce dernier, Taher Ben Sassi qui continue de faire perdurer la tradition dans la rue des Forgerons (Nahj al-Haddadine, en arabe).<\/p>\n

\n

\u00ab Durant le mois du Ramadan, le ma\u00eetre-p\u00e2tissier Abdelaziz Slimane et son fils Mohamed vendaient pr\u00e8s de 7000 pots en terre cuite remplis de Zlabia. Aujourd\u2019hui, on n\u2019arrive m\u00eame pas \u00e0 vendre une cinquantaine de pots tout au long du mois saint. Les temps changent. Ce n\u2019est plus comme avant. Mon oncle me disait que dans les ann\u00e9es 60, la boutique des Slimane vendait quotidiennement 500 \u00ab ftiras \u00bb (beignets, en fran\u00e7ais) par jour. C\u2019\u00e9tait la belle \u00e9poque\u2026 Ya hasra! <\/strong><\/em>\u00bb, fait savoir Taher Ben Sassi avec beaucoup de nostalgie.<\/h3>\n<\/blockquote>\n

Il y avait aussi Machat (au tron\u00e7on menant de \u00ab Bab Bled \u00bb \u00e0 \u00ab El Mahfar \u00bb), Kaouel \u00e0 Tunis (\u00ab Bab Djedid \u00bb, exactement), etc\u2026Quant \u00e0 la famille pionni\u00e8re en la mati\u00e8re, elle portait fi\u00e8rement, le nom Tanouis, un patronyme, aujourd\u2019hui, d\u00e9finitivement disparu pour d\u00e9faut de descendance m\u00e2le.<\/p>\n

Nabeul qui se pr\u00e9valait de la caract\u00e9ristique tr\u00e8s singuli\u00e8re d\u2019avoir toujours eu une corporation de p\u00e2tissiers traditionnels compos\u00e9e essentiellement d\u2019originaires de la ville, en plus des quelques Ghomrasnis du sud tunisien qu\u2019on rencontrait au fin fond des faubourgs, comptait \u00e9galement, une maison de p\u00e2tisserie tr\u00e8s r\u00e9put\u00e9e qui appartenait \u00e0 un juif de la ville du nom de Pariente (\u00ab Barinti \u00bb en arabe). Il faisait de la bonne citronnade entre autres douceurs et avait pignon sur rue, \u00e0 proximit\u00e9 du chausseur \u00ab Martine \u00bb. Sa \u00ab zlabia \u00bb \u00e9tait tr\u00e8s pris\u00e9e par ses concitoyens de confession musulmane qui se bousculaient devant son atelier-\u00e9choppe reconnaissable \u00e0 la \u00ab zlabia maxi \u00bb qui pendait envelopp\u00e9e de cellophane, durant tout le mois saint, au dessus de la porte.<\/p>\n

Cependant, un regain de qualit\u00e9 est constat\u00e9 depuis quelques ann\u00e9es, comme un baume au c\u0153ur, avec l\u2019apparition de l\u2019enseigne \u00ab Oncle Sa\u00efd \u00bb. Sa\u00efd Salah n\u2019est autre qu\u2019un ancien aide de Salah Najar qui s\u2019est install\u00e9 pour son compte et s\u2019est d\u00e9j\u00e0, fray\u00e9 un chemin aupr\u00e8s des amateurs de cette sucrerie ramadanesque tr\u00e8s recommand\u00e9e apr\u00e8s une journ\u00e9e de pieux je\u00fbne afin de pallier \u00e0 une \u00e9ventuelle hypoglyc\u00e9mie et \u00e0 laquelle Ibn Al-Roumi, grand po\u00e8te arabe du IX\u00e8me si\u00e8cle lui consacra un po\u00e8me d\u2019anthologie.<\/p>\n

Source<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

publi\u00e9 par Team \u00ab\u00a0Mangeons Bien\u00a0\u00bb,  Texte: Mohamed Rached KHAYATI \u00c9dition, collecte des t\u00e9moignages et photoreportage: Team \u00ab mangeons bien \u00bb Cr\u00e9dit photos anciennes: \u00ab Collection Salah NAJAR \u00bb, Monique Hayoun & Neila HALI Nabeul et sa s\u0153ur de lait Dar Cha\u00e2bane ont, de tout temps, \u00e9t\u00e9 r\u00e9put\u00e9es pour leur \u00ab zlabia \u00bb succulente. Elles ont toujours eu ceci en commun sauf que pour la derni\u00e8re nomm\u00e9e, la qualit\u00e9… <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":70622,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"neve_meta_sidebar":"","neve_meta_container":"","neve_meta_enable_content_width":"","neve_meta_content_width":0,"neve_meta_title_alignment":"","neve_meta_author_avatar":"","neve_post_elements_order":"","neve_meta_disable_header":"","neve_meta_disable_footer":"","neve_meta_disable_title":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-70621","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry"],"yoast_head":"\nRamadan d\u2019antan: quand les Beys de Tunis se procuraient leur \u00ab zlabia \u00bb \u00e0 Nabeul | HARISSA.COM<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"publi\u00e9 par Team "Mangeons Bien",  Texte: Mohamed Rached KHAYATI \u00c9dition, collecte des t\u00e9moignages 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